Think semi-boneless for that leg of lamb for Easter

At Easter, I pull out all the stops and serve whole roasted leg of lamb. In our family, indeed in much of the world, the custom of serving lamb at Easter is as traditional as colored eggs and chocolate bunnies.

Flavorful lamb ranks among the world's most popular red meats. However, in this country, we consume only about a pound a year per person. Too bad, because lean lamb is highly nutritious with an affable character that takes well to high-heat cooking methods such as roasting, broiling and grilling.

Roasting a leg of lamb sounds challenging, but truly, cooking a roast in the oven proves one of the simplest main courses ever. It all starts with the right roast from young, tender lamb.

Lamb is the grade for sheep less than a year old (mutton is sheep older than 18 months). I look for meat that was raised right: by humane farmers who care about the quality of life of their animals. Farmers markets can be a good source for locally raised lamb. If the market is not an option, ask a local butcher to order a leg for you. At the supermarket, I read labels for country of origin; I don't buy lamb from another continent if I have a choice.

For roasting, the hind leg of the sheep is the norm; it includes the sirloin all the way down to the shank. Because sheep primarily use their front legs for stability and motion, the rear legs tend to be meaty without much fat.

I order a semi-boneless leg of lamb. This makes for speedy cooking, a stunning presentation and easy carving. The recipe that follows can easily be made with a boneless sirloin roast or a boneless butterflied leg of lamb — cooking times will be much shorter — about 30 minutes. No matter, the key to even cooking is to always let the roast come to room temperature before it goes into the oven.

I like to season lamb simply with a mixture of fresh herbs, lemon and olives. The spring garden already yields tender parsley and chives. I'll also add store-bought herbs — fresh oregano, thyme and rosemary. Aromatic Meyer lemons, found in many specialty produce markets, lend a subtle, perfumey flavor with juicy brightness.

A 10- to 12-pound leg of lamb will serve 10 to 12 people. You can serve more if there's an adequate amount of sides. However, you should know that leftover sliced lamb makes the most amazing sandwich. Tuck it into warmed pita or pile onto toasted pumpernickel spread with horseradish mayonnaise. You'll find yourself cooking lamb even when it's not a holiday.

Makes about 2 cups.

Note: From JeanMarie Brownson.

• 2 Meyer lemons

• 1 large regular lemon

• 1/3 c. extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 c. finely sliced fresh chives or 1 bunch green onions, trimmed, white and tender greens, chopped

• 6 large garlic cloves, finely chopped (about 2 tbsp.)

• 1/2 c. chopped fresh parsley

• 1 1/2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh oregano

• 2 tsp. finely chopped, fresh rosemary

• 1/2 tsp. salt

• 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Directions

Grate zests from all lemons into a medium bowl. Squeeze just the Meyer lemons and add their juice (about 1/3 cup) to the bowl. Stir in olives and olive oil. Stir in chives, garlic, parsley, oregano, thyme, rosemary, salt and pepper. Refrigerate, covered, up to 2 days.

Calories25Fat2 gSodium53 mg

Carbohydrates1 gSaturated fat0 gProtein0 g

Cholesterol0 mgDietary fiber0 g

Serves 10 to 12.

Note: From JeanMarie Brownson.

• 1 c. Olive and Fresh Herb Mixture (see recipe)

• 1/2 c. dry white vermouth or white wine

• 1/3 c. fresh lemon juice

• 2 tsp. salt

• 2 lb. small yellow potatoes, scrubbed, quartered

Directions

Place lamb in very large baking or roasting pan. Use the tip of a sharp paring knife to poke holes all over lamb.

Combine the Olive and Fresh Herb Mixture in a small bowl with vermouth, lemon juice and salt. Drizzle lamb with the mixture; turn to coat both sides. Let lamb stand at room temperature, turning occasionally, about 1 hour.

Heat oven to 400 degrees. Roast lamb in center of oven, 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees. Continue roasting lamb, 30 minutes; add potatoes to pan. Turn to coat potatoes well with pan juices. (You'll need to work at this a bit.)

Roast lamb, stirring potatoes once or twice, until potatoes are fork-tender and a meat thermometer inserted in thickest portion of meat (not near the bone) registers 140 degrees for medium-rare, about 50 minutes.

Slice the meat thinly. Serve with the potatoes and pan juices. Pass any remaining olive and herb mixture. Garnish with parsley.

Nutrition information per each of 12 servings:

Calories454Fat16 gSodium593 mg

Carbohydrates17 gSaturated fat5 gProtein57 g

Cholesterol173 mgDietary fiber1 g

Note: This recipe doubles easily — just don't crowd the pan. The griddle should be oily enough to cook a second batch. From JeanMarie Brownson.

• 1 bunch (about 12 oz.) skinny asparagus, ends trimmed

• 1 tbsp. olive oil

• Coarse salt

• 2 tbsp. Olive and Herb Mixture (see recipe)

Heat oven to 400 degrees. Put asparagus on a large cast-iron griddle or ovenproof skillet in a single layer. Toss with oil and a sprinkle of salt. Roast, turning asparagus occasionally, until tip of a knife goes in easily, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer asparagus to a serving dish; toss with the Olive and Fresh Herb Mixture.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories51Fat4 gSodium27 mg

Carbohydrates2 gSaturated fat0 gProtein1 g

Cholesterol0 mgDietary fiber1 g

Note: To speed preparation time, use bottled lupini beans, which still need to have husks removed. A 14-oz. package of frozen fava beans cooked according to package directions tastes great here, too. (These will need to be peeled after cooking.) Or substitute butter beans. This recipe doubles easily. From JeanMarie Brownson.

• 1 jar (16 oz.) ready-to-eat lupini beans (about 2 c.), drained

• 2 tbsp. Olive and Herb Mixture (see recipe)

• Salt and freshly ground pepper

Directions

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories142Fat4 gSodium293 mg

Carbohydrates10 gSaturated fat0 gProtein17 g

Cholesterol0 mgDietary fiber3 g

Makes 6 appetizers.

• 3 tbsp. Olive and Herb Mixture (see recipe)

• 3 tbsp. finely chopped sun-dried tomatoes

• 1 tbsp. chopped fresh basil, plus small leaves for garnish

• 1 (8-oz.) container buffalo milk burrata, drained, or 1 c. whole-milk ricotta cheese

• 1 to 2 tbsp. olive oil

• Thinly sliced French bread, toasted

Directions

Mix Olive and Herb Mixture, tomatoes and chopped basil in bottom of a shallow serving dish. Top with the drained burrata ball or scoop of ricotta. Drizzle with olive oil; sprinkle with pepper. Garnish with small basil leaves. Serve with slices of warm toasted bread.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories113Fat9 gSodium66 mg