They take 'wine pairing' to a whole new level

February 11, 2009 at 9:02PM
Paul and Trina Wentzel (left, & 3rd from left) and Martha and Paul Claesgens (2nd from left and right) sampled the food along with the wine at a Sample event in 2007.
Paul and Trina Wentzel (left, & 3rd from left) and Martha and Paul Claesgens (2nd from left and right) sampled the food along with the wine at a Sample event in 2007. (Paulette Henderson — Star Tribune file/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Bob and Kristen Kowalski will be spending Valentine's Day together, but they won't be celebrating it until later. After all, duty calls.

"We'll ride together" to and from their store, the Wine Market by Kowalski's in Mendota Heights, Kristen said, "and be together from 9 a.m. till 10 p.m. We'll celebrate Sunday."

That's one of the pitfalls for couples who work together in wine retail, especially when St. V's falls on their busiest day of the week. The romance sometimes has to wait, but the Kowalskis and two other local couples agree that their vocation is pretty darn romantic, making it easier to spend so much time together.

But the real keys are -- surprise! -- complementary skills (complimentary ones don't hurt, either), with strong doses of friendship, mutual respect and division of labor. How three couples have made it work:

Paul and Trina Wentzel, the Wine Thief. "It's nice having separate tasks, as it helps us each to concentrate on fewer things," said Paul. He works fulltime at the St. Paul store, while Trina, a teacher at Mounds Park Academy, writes the "shelf talkers" for each wine, buys the accessories and "makes me clean," said Paul.

"Paul is great at being the face of the store," said Trina. "He loves the [distributor] reps, customers, and his overall job."

It also helps, she added, that "we have different palates. While we each appreciate good wines in general, we naturally tend toward different-styled wines, which makes us great partners in purchasing bottles for the store."

David and Gretchen Anderson, France 44. They worked together for 15 years before Gretchen recently returned to real estate. They're still a familiar sight at tastings, where Gretchen takes "copious, well-written tasting notes," said David, vice president of the Minneapolis store. "She is probably a better taster than me.

"She's especially good at picking out a wine's faults. She can tell a corked wine before anybody in the room knows it. We occasionally will argue tactfully about a wine, sometimes not so tactfully. She loves chardonnay, including the big, oaky ones that I'm not a fan of, but she's coming around."

Wine has been a constant throughout their 41-year marriage. "We cook together, go to the symphony together," said David. "We do all these things as a team. Wine is a natural outcome of all of that."

The Kowalskis. After getting married in Tuscany, the Kowalskis opened a Wine Market in Mendota Heights and then another in Woodbury, with visions of a romantic avocation dancing in their heads. The reality has been a bit different.

"We were together 24/7 for the first year and a half," said Bob. "But we're having fun at this. Not that the business isn't stressful sometimes. We'll both wake up at 3 in the morning and talk about wine and the business."

"We had fantasies of being able to get out a lot and go on wine trips together," said Kristen. "But we have loved it. Having similar interests and tastes helps, too. And our skills really complement each other."

Kristen is the wine expert, the buyer and seller. Bob handles marketing and promotions and community outreach. They consult constantly, but don't compete.

"That would be horrendous," said Bob. "If we were facing off on wine knowledge or 'I write a better ad,' we would have been done a year and a half ago."

Jonesy aged port
Jonesy aged port (Paulette Henderson/The Minnesota Star Tribune)
about the writer

about the writer

Bill Ward, Star Tribune