The next big beef thing

January 6, 2010 at 6:55PM

The next big beef thing First, let's deal with how to pronounce Akaushi: Ah-ka-OO-shi. Now, say "spendy." But if health and exclusivity are motivators, get yourself over to Kowalski's for this new beef from Japanese cattle, by way of Texas. Akaushi is touted as 100 percent prime, higher in monounsaturated fat than regular beef, with less cholesterol and a higher level of oleic acid, which may help to lower bad cholesterol.

According to the company website: "In 1994 due to a loophole in the trade Act of 1992 between the United States and Japan, a small nucleus of Akaushi cows and bulls were brought to the United States in a specially equipped Boeing 747." It took about 10 years for the Texas owners, HeartBrand Beef, to grow a herd large enough to bring the beef to market. Served in a few high-end Texas restaurants, the beef now is going retail. Akaushi steaks are priced at about $40 per pound for rib-eye and about $8 per pound for ground beef.

"The new Akaushi beef is being regarded as a permanent addition to our meat department, though the product mix we offer our customers may change from time to time, depending on their needs," said Boyd Oase, Kowalski's Markets meat and seafood specialist.

We tried a New York Strip cut, pan-searing for 5 minutes, then letting it rest for 5 minutes. Sliced thin, it was perhaps the best beef we've ever eaten. Heavily marbled, the beef was fork-tender and tasted so intensely beefy that a small portion proved satisfying. Good thing: The steak ran $42 a pound (our cut cost $31).

Not just for picky eaters Making dinner for meat-eaters, vegetarians and vegans at the same table makes prep a challenge. While many cooks may get by with a "no meat" or "add meat" philosophy, Ivy Manning has written a cookbook aimed at making all diners feel less patronized, and perhaps even a bit coddled. "The Adaptable Feast" (Sasquatch, $23.95) takes 90 recipes and offers adaptations. Savory zucchini stuffing goes into chicken breasts or is mounded in portobello mushrooms; Chinese steamed buns get a choice of BBQ pork or baked tofu. We predict more cookbooks along this theme.

More kitchen accessories, too, such as the Lasagna Trio Pan in the current Kitchen Window catalog. The pan is divided into three separate channels so you can cook three different lasagnas at once. We bet that smart cooks with diverse diners will find even more uses. It comes with spatulas that fit each channel, and it's non-stick. It's $29.95 from Chicago Metallic.

KIM ODE

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