Entertainment trumps fashion at Glamorama
The lineup of designers for last Friday's Macy's Glamorama at the Orpheum Theatre lacked many of the big names we're used to seeing. Fortunately, perennial favorites Jean Paul Gaultier, Marc Jacobs and Sonia Rykiel returned with the most inspiringly staged and styled collections of the night -- though understated in comparison with years past, as seems true of this fall's runways in general.
True to the brand's Parisian roots, Rykiel's fall collection kicked off the show in a "Moulin Rouge"-esque staging set to Rufus Wainwright's "Leaving for Paris No. 2." The collection is ripe with on-trend "heritage" textiles: tartans, fisherman's knits, Fair Isle sweaters and argyles, the prints oversized and the silhouettes elegantly draped, for a look that combined easy Parisian chic with a blue-collar Brit edge.
Gaultier followed with a feather-coiffed, fur-cuffed collection for the ladies who lunch -- in a moody basement jazz club. The collection was inspired by the trappings of the Parisian bourgeoisie: classic trenches, bouclé jackets, pleated trousers and gray bouffants. Glamorama's fashion director, Laura Schara, did an excellent job of selecting pieces, including a stunning silver gown with a caped sleeve that was a standout.
Jacobs' collection showed him moving from the loose, fluid feel of his spring wear to a more severe look, with fitted, bouclé, collared jackets in '60s silhouettes, latex button-downs and rubber dresses that gave the appearance of sequins. Men's fashion also had its moment with nicely styled collections from Armani Jeans and Kenneth Cole Reaction. Dressed in plaids, newsboy caps and skinny suits with the pants tucked into combat boots, Cole's Brit-styled men looked like you might imagine Ewan McGregor and David Beckham as they jaunt about London.
The relative lack of fashion -- eight lines, compared with 12 a year ago -- may be an indicator of the event's heightened focus on entertainment, led by Glamorama's biggest act in years, Bruno Mars. Backed by a four-person band, he closed the show with a polished and poppy 3 1/2-song set that included his hits "Billionaire" and "Just the Way You Are." But the afterparty didn't disappoint in its Dionysian, over-the-top grandness. A guy in a double hula-hooped bodysuit performed all night, models hung out together in all their superhuman glory and kid dancers from the show rolled in (with parental guardian trailing) to do some impromptu break dancing for the increasingly intoxicated crowd, fueled by tequila cocktails from the open bar.
- Jahna Peloquin
Outside the lines
The exact origins of the living-room music collective Coloring Time are hard to trace, but Peter Pisano can pinpoint the first public gig by the new all-star, all-improv group, which plays Thursday at the Cedar Cultural Center. The Peter Wolf Crier frontman -- whose main group plays Vita.mn's August Music & Movies at Lake Harriet Bandshell Friday night -- had just sat down at Pizza Lucé last February with Joe Horton, singer/rapper of No Bird Sing, when he got a call about a gig that night at the XYandZ Gallery.
"I had totally forgotten about it," Pisano admitted. "It was three hours before showtime, and I said, 'Joe, you want to do this with me?'" Thursday's Cedar gig will involve a little more notice and a lot more musicians, but not more musical preparation. Among the 20 musicians committed are Martin Dosh, JT Bates, Jeremy Ylvisaker, Jacob Hanson, Michael Rossetto, Ben Ramsey, David Huckfelt, Chastity Brown, Christopher Keller and Alexei Casselle. Let this serve as a reminder to the aforementioned that you have a gig Thursday night.
- Chris Riemenschneider
Johnny be good
It was only a matter of time before bartender Johnny Michaels worked his cocktail magic at a rock bar. The man is a super music fan (he's named not one but two drinks after post-rock band Mogwai), and has designed drink lists at several other bars while still holding down his post at La Belle Vie. His next cocktail adventure will take place at Icehouse, the Eat Street restaurant/bar/music venue being opened in November by the owners of Be'Wiched.