The Crawl: Cafeteria seeks Uptown supremacy

News and notes from the scene.

August 17, 2012 at 8:56PM
The bar at Cafeteria
The bar at Cafeteria (Margaret Andrews/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

World Cup finale

A month of vuvuzelas is enough to drive anyone crazy. But it's almost over. Spain and the Netherlands will face off in the World Cup final at 1:30 p.m. Sunday. There will be plenty of bars at which to watch the game, but might I suggest the Nomad World Pub, which kicked off the Cup with a huge party back in June. Owner Todd Smith hopes to replicate that success with another block party (and no rain). He's bringing back the Jumbotron, the live music and the food. He also wants to have Brazilian dancers (who might now be replaced with Dutch dancers -- it's still up in the air). One thing's for sure: a good time will be had by all. White Light Riot and Cadillac Kolstad will provide the post-game music. (11 a.m. Sun 7/11, game at 1:30 p.m. Nomad World Pub.)

  • Tom Horgen

    Cafeteria seeks Uptown supremacy

    Why are people so hyped about the new Uptown Cafeteria and Support Group? The reason can be found high above Calhoun Square. The restaurant's rooftop, dubbed the Sky Bar, has been packed since its June 15 opening day.

    THE CONCEPT

    Cafeteria creator Phil Roberts, whose Parasole company runs about a dozen restaurants, said there is no concept. True enough: His $3 million project is basically two spots in one. The restaurant below is a mash-up of retro stylings poured into a diner on steroids.

    The rooftop, on the other hand, looks as if it was chiseled from a singular vision of Uptown cool: The cedar-planked deck is filled with colorful lounge seating and dozens of high-top tables. A long bar is enclosed under garage doors that open onto a trellis area. The view is spectacular.

    WHAT'S TO LIKE

    You have to admit: Parasole knows how to design beautiful restaurants. The Uptown Cafeteria's two-in-one concept works well. Downstairs, you can belly up to the bar, find a table next to one of the many open-air garage doors or sit at the traditional kitchen counter. It's casual, and the food matches the comfy feel.

    While the rooftop has a more excitable attitude, it hasn't turned into the raging sea of humanity that you might find at Drink or Cowboy Slim's. So far, the tanned, Ed Hardy-wearing disciples of Mike "the Situation" Sorrentino haven't totally ransacked the place.

    NEEDS WORK

    That said, life on the rooftop can move from relaxed to pulsating as the night progresses, with the amount of Botox and silicone spiking around midnight. This is the Uptown some people have come to love, while others just plain hate it.

    The bar has set aside a handful of taps for craft beers. With 20 lines, a few more wouldn't hurt. I'm not even going to comment on the abundance of what I will call feminine-inclined cocktails, which come with names such as Pretty in Pink, Uptown Girl and the Fashionista.

    IMPACT

    Pretty huge. Parasole basically owns the corner of Hennepin and Lake now, with the Cafeteria joining Chino Latino and Il Gatto. And how will the Cafeteria affect Stella's rooftop business? Sitting directly across the street, Stella's has almost completed construction on its rooftop's second level, which will have 360-degree views of the area. This addition has led some people to think that a game of one-upmanship is on tap. "We'll build a two-story one next year," Roberts told me with a laugh.

    He was joking. I think.

    • Tom Horgen

      Taste impressions

      It felt like a real music festival. That was what I thought as I walked away from Taste of Minnesota's opening day last Friday. There's room for improvement, but it was definitely a good start.

      Best two-song start by Atmosphere: Guitarist Nate Collis kicked off a deliciously gritty "Trying to Find a Balance" to open the set. That was followed right away by the little-played-of-late "Shhh!," Slug's happy-to-be-from-MN anthem, obviously right for the moment.

      Best farewell from P.O.S.: Taste marked the end of the tour cycle for last year's "Never Better" album for Mr. Alexander and DJ Plain Ole Bill. Before finishing off with "Purexed," the rapper told fans, "I'm gonna try to do another record for you guys soon."

      Facial hair updates: P.O.S. sported a beard that he promised he wouldn't shave "until it's as long as that TV on the Radio guy." Slug, meanwhile, had shaved off the mustache he had at Soundset. He did have something else new on his body, though: a ring on his wedding finger.

      Best recovery after forgetting the host city: Dawes singer Taylor Goldsmith, genuinely impressed by the packed and attentive audience for his L.A.-based band, raved about how "our shows are always better in Minneapolis." After fans shouted, "St. Paul," he apologized: "I'm not from here ... but I wish I was."

      Best post-showtime story: After tearing it up with Retribution Gospel Choir, Alan Sparhawk told me he had not much new to report. "Oh," he said after thinking about it, "Robert Plant is recording two of my songs." Apparently, the Led Zeppelin frontman is making an album on which Low's "Monkey" and "Silver Rider" are to be featured, both from "The Great Destroyer." Despite his hesitation to report it, he's obviously thrilled.

      Worst use of video screens: Fans were distracted from Justin Townes Earle's tender and ultra-personal ballad "Mama's Eyes" by a broadcast of a cooking session from BT's Party Tent. Earle nonetheless charmed the crowd.

      Best thing I ate: Crave's pastrami melt sandwich or Barrio's elote (Mexican corn drizzled with cheese). I also liked Barrio's carnitas taco, but for $5 you get only one puny little taco. I've had giant plates of killer Mexican food for that.

      • Chris Riemenschneider
        Atmosphere performed at Taste of Minnesota
        Atmosphere performed at Taste of Minnesota (Margaret Andrews/The Minnesota Star Tribune)
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