A peak in the state's cultivated wild rice production (about 4 million pounds from 60 growers; today those figures are 7 million to 10 million pounds from 38 growers) was the impetus for a 1985 cookbook: "Wild Rice - Star of the North."

An Oct. 2, 1985, Taste story chronicled the long road to creating a guide worthy of Minnesota's official grain. The cookbook, created at the suggestion of Lola Perpich, wife of Gov. Rudy Perpich, was produced by the volunteer members of the 1006 Summit Avenue Society, a nonprofit that raises money to refurbish the Governor's Mansion on St. Paul's Summit Avenue.

The book's 150-plus recipes focused on casseroles, stuffings, soups, salads, appetizers, breads, cakes and a dessert sauce (for a few examples, go to www.startribune.com/tabletalk), whittled down from 400 submitted by cooks statewide.

"One recipe was dropped because we couldn't find a raccoon to cook," said Helen Jacobson, a member of the society's board of directors.

Most useful were the handy instructions for preparing zizania aquatica. Both involve a ratio of 1 part uncooked wild rice to 3 parts water, with 1 teaspoon salt per 1 cup uncooked rice. The wild rice is done when the water has cooked down and the grain (it's actually a long-grain marsh grass) is tender. One cup uncooked wild rice yields 3 to 4 cups cooked wild rice.

Stovetop method: In a heavy saucepan over high heat, combine wild rice, water and salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer 30 minutes. Check for doneness and continue to simmer until tender, checking every 5 minutes.

Oven method: Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Combine wild rice, water and salt in a baking dish. Cover and bake until tender, 75 to 90 minutes.

RICK NELSON