Taste 50 2007

1. Liquid gold

Won't you please try my olive oil?" floated the voice over the assembled shoppers. Josephine Mangano's lilting accent proved to be an effective lure to her luminous and supremely fragrant Valli Dell'Etna olive oil, but this is one product that can speak for itself. Mangano's top-of-the-line oils are made from olives raised and pressed on her family's small organic farm in Sicily and happily imported to the Twin Cities. A single taste -- heck, even a quick, intoxicating glance -- will convert just about anyone to a lifelong customer.

www.millcityfarmersmarket.org, 612-374-2828

2. In the back, on the left

Shoppers trolling the aisles of Dong Yang Oriental Foods can shopwithout stumbling across the store's nearly hidden no-frills counter, where the menu is in Korean (with off-kilter English subtitles) and the abundant, affordable, robustly seasoned fare (spicy thin-sliced beef, intensely flavorful short ribs, wholebroiled fish, steaming soups, fried dumplings) rightly draws a steady steam of customers.

www.dongyangoriental.com

3. Rising star

2010 update: Fugaise closed in 2009.

4. A better breakfast

Cultural Revolution isn't your basic fruit-in-the-bottom yogurt. Organic, non-homogenized milk and butterfat, from a network of Amish family farms in southeastern Iowa, results in a luscious texture, gentle sweetness and modest traces of fruit flavorings. Man, this stuff is good.

www.kalonaorganics.com

5. A chef's best friend

www.greatciao.com

6. Frosty mug, or scoop?

Pumphouse Creamery is making a summer ice cream using Brooklyn Center's finest: Surly's sumptuous porter-style Bender beer. "It doesn't scream 'chocolate' or 'coffee,'" said Pumphouse owner Barb Zapzalka. "But those flavor tones are definitely in there."

www.pumphouse-creamery.com

7. Learning moment

www.seward.coop

8. Hoot of a hot dish

Not everyone can encapsulate Gopher State zeitgeist on a hot pad, but Faye Passow can. For the 40-plus delicacies featured in Passow's hilarious, spot-on Minnesota Principal Hot Dishes by Region oven helper -- including Crusty Wild Rice Bake, Hearty Hodgepodge, 4 Can Casserole and Salmon Supreme -- are based on actual recipes, gleaned from the mother of source materials. "All you have to do is buy a few church cookbooks," said Passow with a laugh. "I have a Wisconsin farming background, so I pretty much know that culture." A "Marvels of Minnesota" line that illustrates quirky roadside attractions is also available, and Jell-O and TV dinner-themed products should hit stores by this fall.

www.keepthefaye.com

9. A splendid partnership

www.splendidtable.org

10 -- 11. Street scene

Thanks to Jason McLean, owner of the Loring Pasta Bar, and Richard and Larry D'Amico, co-owners of Cafe Lurcat and Bar Lurcat, for jazzing up the milquetoast Minneapolis streetscape with a pair of eye-catching restaurant marquees.

www.loringpastabar.com, www.damico.com

12-- 17. Six superlative summertime sweets

www.yumkitchen.com

13. The title dessert at Blondies Cafe -- thick, buttery, packed with chocolate -- explains why they didn't call the place Brownies.

2010 update: Blondies closed in 2009; its replacement, Geordies 454 Bistro (www.geordies454.com), still bakes the Blondies blondies recipe.

14. Lucia's Restaurant pastry chef Annamarie Rigelman is at peak performance when she's turning out fruit crisps. Unless she's turned her attention to fruit pies. Then it's a tie.

www.lucias.com

www.wolfgangpuck.com

16. Talk about a signature dessert: The Town Talk Diner's chocolate-hazelnut waffle is crowned with a fetchingly pink scoop of cherry ice cream.

www.towntalkdiner.com

17. Laura's Candy's S'more Kits, made in St. Peter, Minn., bring a big dose of class to any campfire, what with honey-molasses graham crackers, fluffy marshmallows in 13 flavors and a Vahlrona chocolate bar.

www.lcandy.com

Forget about Triscuit giveaways at Rainbow Foods; smart sample grazers know that the place to be on Saturday mornings is at the LoveTree Farmstead stand at the St. Paul Farmers Market, where cheesemaker Mary Falk chats up would-be buyers and sweetens the deal with enticing shards of her aromatic, intensely flavorful raw-milk, cave-aged cheeses.

www.lovetreefarmstead.com

19 -- 20. Bring on the ban

On Oct. 1, Minnesota restaurants and bars will finally go where their counterparts in 19 other states have gone before them: smoke-free. Kudos (or brickbats) belongs to Rep. Tom Huntley (DFL-Duluth) and Sen. Kathy Sheran (DFL-Mankato) for sponsoring the legislation that made the ban possible. Now, how about getting wine and beer into supermarkets?

2010 update: Wisconsin joins its neighbor to the west by going smoke-free on July 5th.

It's hard to imagine a more delicious commute than Metro Transit's route 21, which runs the length of newly spiffy Lake Street, linking diners to Cafe Barbette, Bryant-Lake Bowl, jP American Bistro, Fuji Ya, Me Gusta, the stalls inside both the Midtown Global Market and Mercado Central, Ingebretsen's, Town Talk Diner, Craftsman, Longfellow Grill and many other notable stops.

www.metrotransit.org. 2010 update: jP American Bistro closed in 2008.

22 -- 23. A gold medal park

Outdoor noshers have a fabulous new picnic destination: Gold Medal Park. Here's the plan: Drop by the grab-and-go case at Spoonriver for a turkey-mango chutney sandwich, a blue cheese-walnut-apple salad or a chicken quesadilla (don't forget a refreshing bottle of Vignette soda, made with pinot noir or chardonnay grape juice). Hike up the park's observation mound, take a seat on one of the Brazilian hardwood benches and soak up the breathtaking riverfront view.

Gold Medal Park is located next to the Guthrie Theater on S. 2nd. St. in Minneapolis.

Sure, 2007 started off as a tough year for restaurants, with the closing of Levain, Auriga and Five Restaurant & Street Lounge. But the industry is constantly reinventing itself and this year is no exception, with such promising newcomers as Saffron, Bank, Little Szechuan and the Good Day Cafe appearing on the scene. And there are more hopefuls on the horizon, including Brasa Rotisserie (by Restaurant Alma's Alex Roberts), Red Stag Supperclub (from Kim Bartmann, owner of the Bryant-Lake Bowl and Cafe Barbette), Nick and Eddie (Doug and Jessica Anderson, of A Rebours), Via Cafe & Bar (by Mission American Kitchen's Anoush Ansari and Hadi Anbar) and a new project by Five's former culinary team, Stewart and Heidi Woodman.

www.saffronmpls.com, www.bankmpls.com, www.littleszechuan.com, www.brasa.us, www.redstagsupperclub.com, www.nickandeddie.com. 2010 update: Via closed in 2009 and was remade into the Tavern on France (www.tavernonfrance.com) and the Good Day Cafe is at 5410 Wayzata Blvd., Golden Valley.

28. Where no co-op has gone before

Shoreview, Bloomington, Plymouth and Hudson, Wis., all have at least one thing in common: All are without a natural foods co-op (or a Whole Foods Market, for that matter). Enter Fresh & Natural Foods. Owners Kerry Larson and Bill Fogerty have been expanding their organic, health-conscious grocery store chain at a fast clip, moving from one store to four in just five years and introducing everything from locally raised grass-fed beef, hundreds of bulk food items and a host of gluten-free foods to a huge swath of Twin Cities-area shoppers.

2010 update: Fresh & Natural Foods (www.freshandnaturalfoods.com) has locations in Shoreview, Plymouth and Hudson, Wis.

Chef Isaac Becker gets most of the props -- and rightly so -- when the foodescenti wax rhapsodic over his buzz-worthy 112 Eatery. But in her capacity as front-of-the-house smoothie extraordinaire, Becker's spouse and business partner Nancy St. Pierre deserves a hefty chunk of the credit for making the toughest table in town also one of the most enjoyable.

www.112eatery.com

30. Enough said

No foodie's refrigerator is complete without a magnetic version of painter Robert Indiana's says-it-all paintings. They're a cornerstone (the paintings, not the fridge magnets) of the Walker Art Center's permanent collection.

www.walkerart.org

When Antonino Coppola fell for Aura Brown, it wasn't just the Italian from Sorrento and the Minnesotan from Duluth who benefited. Their marriage resulted in a compelling reason -- beyond Canal Park and Glensheen -- to visit the North Shore: Coppola Art Imports. Coppola -- a third-generation ceramics merchant -- is a charmer, and his lakefront shop is piled high with a treasure trove of hand-painted ceramics and tableware sourced from all over Italy and Sicily.

www.coppolaartimports.com

32. Cookbook queen

Prolific ought to be Paulette Mitchell's middle name (actually, it's Gwendolyn, and she's not fond of it). It suits a dynamo who has produced a dozen cookbooks since 1984, each one brainstormed, tested and written in the culinary think-tank otherwise known as her inviting Edina kitchen. Mitchell's work has often embraced one of two themes that seem to reflect the way Americans cook: envelope-pushing vegetarian collections or quick-preparation titles aimed at addressing the needs of time-pressed Americans. "There's always the question of whether cookbook authors follow the trends or set them," Mitchell said. She probably does both. Mitchell's influence extends beyond cookbooks, with a busy schedule as a television, video and Webcast host and producer, magazine author and popular cruise-ship cooking instructor. Not that Mitchell will be traveling much this summer. She'll be in her kitchen, cooking up a storm and formulating her next cookbook, "15 Minute Gourmet: Timeless Recipes," scheduled to appear in bookstores in fall 2008.

www.paulettemitchell.com

The restaurant might be called Hell's Kitchen, but its lemon-ricotta hotcakes are pure heaven. "Here's some maple syrup, although you won't need it," said our server. You know what? She was absolutely right.

www.hellskitcheninc.com

34. A frozen find

Ignore the clutter of Lean Cuisines, Toaster Streudels and Hot Pockets in the supermarket freezer case and go straight for a winner: La Loma tamales, made by hand in Enrique and Noelia Garcia's south Minneapolis kitchen.

www.lalomatamales.com

Another trend worth heralding is the growing influx of young people into small-scale farming. Their passion is pumping new energy -- and delicious new products -- into local farmers markets and natural-foods co-ops. One example: 26-year old Michael Noreen, a regular at the Mill City Farmers Market in Minneapolis. "I know a lot of people my age who grew up urban or suburban who don't know anything about this kind of life but want to find out about it," said Noreen, a Hastings native who is raising about 40 different crops on his Burning River Farm near Osceola, Wis.

www.burningriverfarm.com

36. Setting sail

When the room looks plucked out of a 1930s Cole Porter musical, can a floor show be far behind? Not at the Oceanaire Seafood Room, where a seat at the raw bar provides a fine vantage point for watching staffers as they nimbly shuck fresh bivalves. And enjoy the city's best shrimp cocktail -- jumbo, succulent things, with a gutsy horseradish-laced cocktail sauce -- a genre-defining crab cake, a plate of Sinatra-smooth smoked trout, creamy coleslaw and a campy, show-stopping baked Alaska.

www.theoceanaire.com

In the we-can-dream department, wouldn't it be great if Macy's installed a branch of Frontera Fresco in its Nicollet Mall store in downtown Minneapolis? From the day this quick-service lunch counter opened in the former Marshall Field's State Street flagship, smart Chicagoans have been lining up, and for good reason: The fresh, robust and inexpensive street food is the work of Mexican food authority Rick Bayless.

www.rickbayless.com

38. Grass-fed goodness

Sherwin-Williams' "Butter Up" paint chip pales in comparison to the lustrously golden Pastureland butter. That gorgeous color -- and standout flavor and silky texture -- is the result of sweet, betacarotene-rich milk from pasture-raised cows in southeastern Minnesota. No wonder judges at the American Cheese Society's annual competition have made it a two-time first-place winner.

www.pastureland.coop

Minnesota, the first state to designate an official fungus, didn't settle for any old porcini or shiitake, but mushroom royalty: the smoky, nutty, honeycombed morel.

40. Locally focused shopping

Golden Fig Fine Foods might be small, but the St. Paul store's ambitions are not. Owner Laurie Crowell's constantly expanding inventory of locally produced artisan food products (the latest is the strangely compelling dark chocolate-robed fruitcake from Sunrise Bakery in Hibbing, Minn.), including a dozen Minnesota- and Wisconsin-made cheeses, beautiful kitchenware and a number of first-rate house-made products, starting with a zesty tangerine-kissed margarita mix. Crowell is definitely on to something: Her products' freshness level is high, not a big surprise given that shipping originates maybe halfway across the state vs. halfway across the country or halfway around the world.

www.goldenfig.com

41. Taking the cake

4200 28th Av. S., Mpls., 612-729-6898

42. Cultured dining

Here's a trend worth applauding. First the Walker Art Center introduced 20.21; then the Guthrie Theater chimed in with Cue. The next wave of Minneapolis cultural institutions venturing into the dining business? The Weisman Art Museum, which is including a cafe in an artful $10 million expansion designed by architect Frank Gehry (opening in 2009), and the Minnesota Orchestra, which is including a restaurant in its $90 million plans to revamp Orchestra Hall and Peavey Plaza, set for 2011.

2010 update: The Weisman has cut back its restaurant to a coffee/dessert bar, and Orchestra Hall has eliminated its restaurant plans.

43. On a roll

www.pearsonscandy.com

44 -- 45. Spanish two-fer

Two of summer's greatest pleasures: a breezy, starry evening on the rooftop deck at Solera, and drinking one's way through the restaurant's peerless all-Spanish wine and sherry lists, preferably while seated upon said rooftop.

www.solera-restaurant.com

46 Landmark status

www.bankmpls.com

47. Boffo barista

Andrew Kopplin has a healthy obsession with coffee, rooting out the finest specialty beans and applying the latest and greatest brewing technology. Customers at his slip of a St. Paul coffeehouse definitely benefit.

www.kopplinscoffee.com

48. Bagging paper and plastic

www.lundsandbyerlys.com

49 Does Doritos know about this?

Lin and Doug Hilgendorf are old pros when it comes to raising and milling a host of high-quality organic grains on their southwestern Minnesota farm. Their tortilla chips, sold under the family's Whole Grain Milling Co. label, are relatively new, and not to be missed. The Hilgendorfs' not-so secret ingredient is a high-protein corn, which yields a superior corn flavor. Pass the salsa.

www.wholegrainmilling.net

50 Road trip