Sunday Supper: Tex-Mex Cheese Enchiladas

Serves 4 to 6.

Note: A smoky chile gravy tops these enchiladas. Find dried ancho chiles near the produce section. From "Spiced," by the editors of America's Test Kitchen.

• 1 oz. (about 2) dried ancho chiles, stemmed, seeded and torn into 1/2-in. pieces (1/2 c.)

• 1 tbsp. cumin seeds

• 1/2 tsp. black peppercorns

• 2 tsp. dried oregano

• 5 tbsp. vegetable oil, divided

• 3 tbsp. flour

• Salt and pepper

• 2 c. chicken or vegetable broth

• 2 tsp. distilled white vinegar

• 8 oz. Monterey Jack cheese, shredded (2 c.)

• 12 (6-in.) corn tortillas

• 1 c. finely chopped onion, divided

Directions

Toast anchos and cumin seeds in 12-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer to a spice grinder (or use a blender in the "grind" mode) and let cool for 5 minutes. Add peppercorns and oregano, and process until finely ground, about 30 seconds.

Heat 3 tablespoons oil in now-empty skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add chile mixture, garlic powder, flour and 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant and slightly deepened in color, about 1 minute.

Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Spread 1/2 cup sauce over bottom of 9- by 13-inch baking dish. Combine Monterey Jack and Cheddar in bowl; set 1/2 cup aside for topping. Brush both sides of tortillas with remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Stack tortillas, wrap in damp dish towel, place on plate and microwave until warm and pliable, about 1 minute.

Working with 1 warm tortilla at a time, spread 1/4 cup cheese mixture across center of each tortilla and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon onion. Roll tortilla tightly around filling and place, seam side down, in baking dish, arranging enchiladas in 2 columns across width of dish.