Sunday supper: Sweet Potato and Black-Eyed Pea Stew

Serves 6.

Note: Ndambe (pronounced NAM-bay), a stew of black-eyed peas, tomatoes and onion, is found throughout Senegal, often with bits of lamb or beef added. Serve with rice or fonio (an African heritage grain), or do as they do in Senegal, mashed slightly and spread over a split baguette. Don't use neutral-flavored oil in place of the coconut oil. Coconut oil, particularly unrefined coconut oil, infuses the stew with a sweet aroma and distinctive flavor. From "Milk Street Vegetables," by Christopher Kimball (Voracious, 2021).

• 2 tbsp. coconut oil, preferably unrefined (see Note)

• 1 large yellow onion, chopped

• Kosher salt and ground black pepper

• 4 medium garlic cloves, minced

• 1 or 2 Fresno or jalapeño chiles, stemmed and sliced into thin rings

• 1 bay leaf

• 1 lb. sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-in. cubes

• 1 lb. ripe tomatoes, cored and chopped

• 1/2 c. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

• 1 tbsp. lemon juice, plus lemon wedges, to serve

In a large pot over medium setting, heat the coconut oil until shimmering. Add the onion and 1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper, then cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and light golden brown, 7 to 10 minutes. Stir in the garlic and chiles, then cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the black-eyed peas, bay leaf and 4 cups water. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, then reduce to medium and cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until the flavors meld, about 15 minutes.