Sunday supper: Browned Butter and Lemon Pasta with Chicken

Serves 4 to 6.

We cook butter until the milk solids caramelize to add nutty fragrance and flavor to this pasta dish. The richness of the browned butter is balanced with a generous measure of aromatic lemon zest and tart, tangy lemon juice. Either boneless chicken breasts or thighs work, and for allium savoriness, scallions, garlic or shallot all do well, so use whatever you prefer. From “Milk Street: Simple,” by Christopher Kimball (Voracious, 2023).

• 1 lb. spaghetti, capellini, rigatoni or penne

• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 1/2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs or breasts, trimmed and cut into 3/4- to 1-in. chunks

• 4 tbsp. salted butter, cut into 4 pieces

• 1 tbsp. grated lemon zest, plus 3 tbsp. lemon juice

• 1/2 c. lightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley

• Red pepper flakes, for optional garnish

• Pecorino Romano cheese, for optional garnish

Directions

In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the chicken, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper; cook, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is golden brown all over, 7 to 9 minutes. Reduce to medium and add the butter and scallion whites. Cook, stirring only once or twice, until the butter smells nutty and the chicken is well browned, about 4 minutes. Add the lemon zest and reserved pasta water, scraping up any browned bits.