Sunday supper: Kung Pao Chicken

Serves: 4 to 6.

"I once had a sample of kung pao chicken at a Costco, and that was the moment I realized the dish — named for a 19th-century governor-general who loved the dish — had achieved cultural escape velocity, leaping from the kitchens of Chengdu to all corners of the globe," writes author Kevin Pang. "Including Costco. Once people taste it, who could blame them for liking it? It's a spicy, tingly, crunchy mix of chicken, chiles and toasted peanuts, gently sauced in a savory light glaze." Note: Dry sherry can be used in place of Shaoxing wine; sherry or balsamic vinegar can be used in place of black vinegar. From "A Very Chinese Cookbook" with Kevin Pang and Jeffrey Pang (America's Test Kitchen, 2023).

• 1 tablespoon water

• 1/4 tsp. baking soda

• 1 1/2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed and cut into 1/2‑in. pieces

• 1/4 c. soy sauce, divided

• 1 tbsp. cornstarch

• 1/2 tsp. white pepper

• 2 tbsp. plus 1 tsp. vegetable oil, divided

• 3 cloves garlic, minced

• 2 tsp. grated fresh ginger

• 1 tbsp. Chinese black vinegar (see Note)

• 2 tsp. toasted sesame oil

• 1/2 c. dry-roasted peanuts

• 10 to 15 small dried Sichuan chiles, stemmed, halved lengthwise, and seeded

• 1 tsp. Sichuan peppercorns, coarsely ground

• 2 celery ribs, cut into 1/2‑in. pieces

Directions

Combine water and baking soda in medium bowl. Add chicken and toss to coat; let sit for 5 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons soy sauce, cornstarch, Shaoxing wine and pepper to chicken and toss until well combined; let marinate for 15 minutes.

Combine 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, garlic and ginger in small bowl; set aside. Whisk vinegar, sugar, sesame oil, and remaining 2 tablespoons soy sauce in a separate small bowl until sugar has dissolved; set aside.

Cook peanuts and 1 teaspoon vegetable oil in 14-inch flat-bottomed wok over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until peanuts just begin to darken, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer peanuts to plate and spread into even layer to cool. Return now-empty wok to medium-low heat. Add remaining 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, chiles and peppercorns and cook, stirring constantly, until chiles begin to darken, 1 to 2 minutes. Add reserved garlic mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until mixture is fragrant, about 30 seconds.