Sunday supper: Fideos with Chickpeas, Fennel and Kale

Serves 4.

Note: A cousin of paella, fideos (Spanish for noodles) is a one-pan dish of short noodles simmered in a smoky sauce. The dish typically adds meat or seafood, but is so flavorful it also works as a vegetarian meal. Need to improvise with what's in your pantry? Use thin spaghetti in place of fideos. Just loosely wrap the pasta in a dish towel, then press the bundle against the corner of the counter to break into 1- or 2-inch lengths. If you don't have chickpeas, use small white beans instead. Any minced fresh herbs will work in place of the fennel fronds, and toasted seeds or other chopped nuts can replace the almonds. From "The Complete Modern Pantry" by America's Test Kitchen (2022).

• 8 oz. fideo noodles (see Note)

• 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided

• 1 onion, finely chopped

• 1 fennel bulb, 1 1/2 tsp. fronds minced, stalks discarded, bulb halved, cored and sliced thin

• 1/2 tsp. table salt, divided

• 1 (14.5-oz.) can diced tomatoes, drained and chopped fine, juice reserved

• 3 cloves garlic, minced

• 1 1/2 tsp. smoked paprika

• 2 3/4 c. chicken or vegetable broth

• 1/2 tsp. pepper

• 1 (15-oz.) can chickpeas, rinsed

• 8 oz. frozen kale or spinach, thawed and squeezed dry

• 1/2 c. dry white wine or dry vermouth

• 1/4 c. sliced almonds, toasted

• Lemon wedges

Directions

Toss pasta and 1 teaspoon olive oil in 12-inch broiler-safe skillet until pasta is evenly coated. Toast pasta over medium-high heat, stirring often, until it's browned and releases nutty aroma (pasta should be color of peanut butter), 6 to 10 minutes; transfer to bowl.

Wipe out the now–empty skillet, add remaining 2 tablespoons oil and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onion, sliced fennel and 1/4 teaspoon salt and cook until onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomatoes and cook until mixture is thick, dry and slightly darkened in color, 4 to 6 minutes.

Reduce heat to medium; stir in garlic and paprika, and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in toasted pasta until thoroughly combined. Stir in broth, pepper, chickpeas, kale, wine, reserved tomato juice and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. Increase heat to medium-high and simmer, stirring occasionally, until liquid is slightly thickened and pasta is just tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler.

Transfer skillet to oven and broil until surface of pasta is dry with crisped, browned spots, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove skillet from oven (skillet handle will be hot). Let cool for 5 minutes, then sprinkle with almonds and fennel fronds and serve with lemon wedges.