Sunday roast chicken, Paris style

Serves 4.

Note: Make sure that your oven is well cleaned and open the kitchen windows for ventilation because the oven temperature is hot and there may be some smoke.

• 1 whole free-range broiler-fryer chicken (from 31/4 to 31/2 lb., no larger )

• 11/2 tsp. salt, or to taste

• Freshly ground black pepper

• 2 or 3 sprigs of fresh thyme (or 1 tsp. dried thyme), plus 1 to 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme (or 1/2 tsp. dried thyme), divided

• Lemon or lime peel, several strips, cut into pieces

• 2 garlic cloves, crushed, optional

• 1 c. water or dry white wine, or 1 c. water mixed with 2 tbsp. rum

• 1 tbsp. butter

• 1 tbsp. neutral oil, such as grapeseed or sunflower

• 1 large bay leaf, broken into pieces

Directions

Preheat the oven to 475 degrees. Have the chicken at room temperature. Rinse the chicken well with room temperature water, and use paper towel to clean out the cavity. Pat the chicken dry with more toweling.

Rub the chicken all over with the salt and black pepper, including the cavity. Place the sprigs of thyme, lime or lime peel and half of the shallots or onion into the cavity.

Rub the chicken all over with the garlic and the chopped thyme. Pull the chicken legs upright and using twine or heavy string, tie the legs above the breast. Fold the wing tips back and secure with skewers if necessary. Lightly oil a shallow roasting pan (9- by 13-inch is best; no larger) or large cast-iron skillet. Place the chicken in the pan, breast side up.

Pour 1 cup water into the roasting pan around the chicken, along with the butter, oil, bay leaf and remaining shallots or onion.

Lower the oven temperature to 425 degrees. Return the chicken to breast side up and laden the pan drippings all over the bird. Then bake for about 20 minutes longer or until its juice runs clear when the chicken is pierced with a knife at the thigh joint or at the wing-breast-juncture. An instant-read thermometer should indicate between 170 and 175 degrees.

When the chicken is done, transfer it to a warm platter and let it rest in a warm place, such as the back of the stovetop, breast side up to allow the juice to drain out. Don't tent the bird with foil; that causes steam to collect.

Just before serving, skim off all except a tablespoon or two of the oil in the roasting pan or skillet. Stir in the wine or chicken broth. Place the pan over medium-high heat and bring to a gentle boil, scraping up the browned bits in the pan with a spoon.

Reduce the heat and cook the sauce for 4 or 5 minutes, stirring, adding a little more salt or black pepper if desired. Strain the gravy into a warm bowl and pass with the chicken.

Nutrition information per serving:

Carbohydrates3 gSaturated fat7 gCalcium36 mg

Protein44 gCholesterol145 mgDietary fiber0 g

Alcohol6 g

Diabetic exchanges per serving: 6 medium-fat meat.

ALABAMA FRIED CHICKEN

Note: I generally use chicken legs, thighs and wings in this recipe, saving the breast, which dries out easily, for baking or salads.

• 31/4 to 31/2 lb. chicken legs, thighs and/or wings

• 1 c. buttermilk

• 1 tsp. salt, or to taste

• 1 tsp. paprika

• 3 c. neutral oil such as grapeseed or canola oil, or more as needed

• 3/4 c. flour

Directions

Trim away any excess fat and skin from chicken. Rinse the chicken well under cold running water, and pat with paper toweling. Place in a large bowl. Pour the buttermilk over the chicken and marinate for 1 hour or longer, if desired. (Put it in the refrigerator if longer than 1 hour.)

Drain the chicken and dry again with paper toweling. Sprinkle the chicken with the salt, paprika and black pepper.

Place the pan on high heat, and using a deep-frying thermometer, heat the oil to 360 degrees.

In the meantime, pour the flour into a plastic or paper bag. Place the chicken in the bag and shake to completely coat the pieces with flour. Remove chicken and dust off any excess flour.

When the surface of the oil is rippling and the thermometer registers 360 degrees, add several pieces of the chicken at a time, beginning first with the legs and thighs, then the wings. Don't overcrowd the pan.

Fry the chicken until it is golden brown and juices run clear when a piece is pierced with a fork. The thighs and legs should cook in 20 to 25 minutes, the wings in 18 to 20 minutes.

If the temperature drops below 360 degrees, let the oil heat back up before adding more chicken. Remove the chicken from the hot oil and drain on paper toweling. Keep warm in a 200-degree oven.

Uncover the chicken for the remaining cooking period and continue cooking until the pieces are golden brown and juices run clear when chicken is pierced with a fork.

Nutrition information per serving, without skin:

Calories400Fat19 gSodium710 mg

Carbohydrates14 gSaturated fat5 gCalcium65 mg

Protein41 gCholesterol114 mgDietary fiber1 g

SPIRIT BRAISED CHICKEN

Serves 4 to 6.

Note: This is my variation of another Southern favorite, Smothered Chicken, in which the chicken is browned first and then simmered in well-seasoned gravy. A slug of brandy, dark rum or vermouth adds the spirit.

• 3 or 4 small white onions or 2 large white onions cut into wedges

• 1 bay leaf

• 1 tsp. salt, or to taste

• Freshly ground black pepper

• 3 or 4 tbsp. neutral oil, such as grapeseed or sunflower, divided

• 1/3 to 1/2 c. brandy, dark rum or dry vermouth

• 2 c. sliced fresh mushrooms

• 11/2 tsp. fresh thyme, finely chopped, or 1/2 tsp. dried thyme

• 2 tbsp. flour

• 1 tbsp. tomato paste

• 3 c. chicken broth (about)

Directions

Trim away and discard any excess fat and skin from the chicken pieces. Rinse the chicken well under cold water and pat very dry with paper toweling.

Sprinkle chicken with the salt and black pepper. Pour 2 or 3 tablespoons oil into a large heavy skillet or heavy pot that has a lid or cover; heat until quite hot.

Add several pieces of chicken at a time and cook over medium-high heat for about 5 minutes, turning to brown evenly. Don't crowd the pan.

Remove chicken to a platter or dish when nicely browned and brown the remaining pieces the same way. When all the chicken is browned and on a platter, pour over the brandy or rum or vermouth; set aside.

Meanwhile, add a little more oil to the pan if needed, and stir in the mushrooms, garlic, thyme and the reserved onions and bay leaf. Sauté the vegetables for 5 to 6 minutes, or until lightly browned, stirring a couple of times.

Pour in the chicken broth, stirring until sauce is well blended. Return chicken with its drippings to the skillet or pot, stirring well, and bring the gravy to a gentle boil, turning over the chicken several times.

As soon as the gravy is bubbling, cover the skillet or pot and reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer the chicken for 35 to 40 minutes or until the pieces are fork-tender and the juices run golden when pierced with a fork, turning over occasionally.

At serving, place the chicken in a warm serving dish and set aside. Bring the sauce to a boil again, and cook for a few minutes, stirring until the gravy is the consistency of heavy cream. Pour the spirited sauce over the chicken and serve immediately.

Nutrition information per each of 6 servings, without skin:

Calories320Fat15 gSodium940 mg

Protein33 gCholesterol94 mgDietary fiber1 g

Alcohol2 g

Diabetic exchanges per serving: 1 vegetable, 41/2 lean meat, 1/2 fat.

WEST AFRICAN CHICKEN (POULET AU YASSA)

Serves 4 to 6.

• 31/2 to 4 lb. chicken legs and thighs

• 1 tbsp. chopped fresh oregano or marjoram, or 11/2 tsp. dried herbs, crushed, divided

• 11/2 tsp. salt, or to taste

• Freshly ground black pepper

• 4 to 5 tbsp. neutral oil, such as grapeseed or sunflower, divided

• 2 large onions

• 2 garlic cloves

• 2 hot chile peppers

• 2 c. coarsely chopped plum tomatoes or drained canned tomatoes

• 1 bay leaf

Preheat the broiler. Trim away any excess fat from the chicken and discard. Rinse the chicken under cold water and dry with paper toweling. Rub half of the herbs all over the chicken and then sprinkle with the salt and black pepper. Save the remaining herbs to use in the tomato sauce.

Generously oil a shallow boiler pan. Place the chicken in the pan in a single layer and drizzle all over with 3 tablespoons oil.

Set the pan under the broiler, 6 inches from the heat. Broil the chicken until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Turn over and broil for 5 minutes on the other side or until golden brown.

Remove the pan of chicken from the broiler and pour the lemon juice over the chicken, covering all over.

Reset the oven and preheat to 400 degrees.

While the chicken bakes, make the tomato sauce: Peel and slice the onions, mince the garlic and finely dice the chile peppers. Heat the remaining oil in a medium skillet. Add the chopped vegetables and sauté over medium heat for 5 minutes or until the onions are soft and translucent.

Add the tomatoes and bay leaf and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 20 to 25 minutes or until slightly thickened.

At serving, remove bay leaf and pour tomato sauce over the chicken, mix well, reheat if necessary, and serve the chicken over rice or couscous.

Nutrition information per each of 6 servings:

Calories420Fat27 gSodium710 mg

Protein35 gCholesterol120 mgDietary fiber2 g