Summit Brewing to hit the big 30 this year

Turning 30 is a milestone for many people. It marks a symbolic transition from youth to adulthood. For a craft brewery, the significance of that milestone is even greater. It is a marker not just of maturity, but also of tenacity.

The craft beer movement is itself only a few years older than 30. Breweries of that age were pioneers. They staked a claim and pushed through the early years when upstart beer makers struggled for recognition. They survived the boom and bust of the 1990s that saw many of the old-timers go under. They ushered in the current era of mainstream acceptance and astronomical growth. They are the torchbearers of better beer.

St. Paul's Summit Brewing Co. turns 30 this year. When founder Mark Stutrud rolled out the first keg in 1986, only nine other craft breweries existed — mostly on the two coasts. Opening a small brewery in the conservative and price-conscious Midwest must have seemed a fool's errand. It meant going head to head with regionally based, nationally strong giants Anheuser-Busch and Miller, not to mention local favorites Schmidt and Stroh's.

The success of the venture was such a long shot that the American Brewers Association, the main industry trade group at the time, sent Stutrud a letter in 1983 discouraging his pursuit.

"We note that you are working on a feasibility study on establishing a microbrewery in the Twin Cities area," the letter read. "Please know that we are not encouraging you to do so, because it is a long and hard road that you are planning to go down." But Stutrud took those steps. And his tenacity has made Summit the nation's 34th largest brewery.

He credits the brewery's success at least in part to an emphasis on quality. "From Day 1, we were immediately confronted with competing with large imports and the big brewers," he said. "Quality was essential. People had to recognize that the beer tasted differently, but we couldn't have anyone say that the quality was off."

To that end, Summit has built the most advanced quality control program of any Minnesota brewery. In its state-of-the-art lab, a team of brewing scientists analyzes the beer at every step of the process, from raw ingredients to packaging. The checks continue even after the beer has left the building.

McConn is quick to point out that Summit's success didn't come without the support of others. Over those 30 years, the brewery has built relationships with consumers, retailers, barley growers, hop producers, maltsters and others who have enabled its growth.

McConn, an Irish native, describes it this way, "It starts with a bloke growing barley in North Dakota. Ends with a lad or lassie having a pint in a pub. And there are a huge number of people in between those two points. We're part of something much bigger."

Summit is celebrating its anniversary with a string of limited-release beers designed to showcase those relationships. Each beer will feature special ingredients from its suppliers. Retailer and distribution partners are invited to participate in the brewing and packaging.

The first of these beers, which is on the market now, is the 30th Anniversary Double IPA. True to the style, hops are king in this beer. It utilizes six different varieties from the United States and New Zealand. Bitterness is high, but the focus is on hop flavor and aroma. It absolutely bursts with tropical fruit, orange zest and lemon/lime. What makes this beer stand out is its exceptional dryness. Double IPAs can often taste sticky sweet. This one is crisp and refreshing. The first glass begs for a second.

The Double IPA will be followed in late spring by a traditional keller pils that will feature new hop and malt varieties from Germany. Late summer will see the release of a West London-style bitter made with new hops from the United Kingdom and New Zealand. A warming barleywine rounds things out for the winter holidays.

Many anniversary events will be held throughout the summer and will culminate with the Summit Backyard Bash on Sept. 10 at the brewery, with an all-day music festival and plenty of food trucks. And of course there will be beer, including a special area for cask-conditioned ales. More details at summitbrewing.com/happenings.

Michael Agnew is a certified cicerone (beer-world version of sommelier) and owner of A Perfect Pint. He conducts private and corporate beer tasting events in the Twin Cities, and can be reached at michael@aperfectpint.net.