Most travel to Phuket Island is via Bangkok. Flying from city to beach is relatively cheap, but be warned that domestic weight restrictions are tighter than on overseas flights, and hefty surcharges apply. We flew roundtrip for $80 (that included about $12 extra for Express Seating, a good deal because seating on Thai Air was general admission and our stickers put us at the front of the boarding line). Bangkok's $3.8 billion Suvarnabhumi airport, opened in 2006, is a sprawling marvel. Beyond the airport, here's what to see:
Wat Phra Keo, or Royal Monastery of the Emerald Buddha. The Buddha here is actually jade, but no matter: This multi-building compound of opulent temples, gold-leaf tower, a mausoleum, sculpture, murals, chanting monks, flowers and incense is a sensory overload and a photographer's dream. Old City, west of downtown. $7, includes admission to the adjoining Grand Palace.
Wat Po, or Temple of the Reclining Buddha. Feeling warm marble on your bare feet and hearing the sound of coins hitting metal offering buckets only increases the auspiciousness of this 150-foot gold Buddha lying on his side with one hand supporting his massive head. Be sure to check out the giant feet with their impossibly intricate mother-of-pearl inlays. Also in Old City. $1.75.
Not for claustrophobes, Chatuchak market, open weekends only, in daylight hours, is reported to have 10,000 merchandise stalls and 200,000 daily visitors. Heat, crowds and humidity limited us to about an hour there, but we found great food at rock-bottom prices and outstanding people-watching. Items for sale at bargain prices range from snakes and birds to Thai silk, clothing, carvings and hand-beaded jewelry. Ride the Skytrain's Sukhumvit line to the final station, called Mo Chit, as this market is a long and slow taxi ride from most hotels.
Street food. Food stalls are everywhere in Bangkok. When I could resist no longer, I ordered a wok-fried omelet, which came with red and green bell peppers and a squirt of spicy sauce, and was served on white rice. It was delicious, and cost 66 cents. Even if you fear gastric consequences, it's fun watching all the street-food action. During morning rush hour, it's common to see a commuter with an omelet in one hand, an iced Thai coffee in the other, and riding side-saddle on a hired motorbike in dense traffic en route to the office.
CLAUDE PECK
