Mornings at the Minnesota State Fair. Fewer crowds. Shorter lines. Lower temperatures. Easier parking. And the food? Not bad. Sometimes quite good, actually.
This being the nation's Largest Temporary Outdoor Food Court, breakfast wouldn't be the same without a few artery-clogging on-a-stick concoctions. Hansen's Foods had an inspired idea for the 2013 fair: make the beloved corn dog a morning repast by substituting breakfast links for the hot dog, and subbing out the ketchup and mustard with maple syrup (imitation, alas). The cornmeal has that welcome crunch and beautiful color, the sausage has plenty of kick and they're served three to an order ($5, served until 11 a.m.), a tremendous — and shareable — deal.
Scotch eggs are a deep-fried breakfast natural, and the Scotch Egg stand turns out a straightforward product ($7). Here's how it works: Take a hard-cooked egg, envelop it with plenty of ground pork sausage, roll that in bread crumbs and introduce it to bubbling oil. It's crunchy, the sausage has a zippy bite, and, oh my goodness, there's an egg in the middle! Take full advantage of the horseradish sauce.
Axel's, that hotbed of novelty fried foods, spears a so-so sausage patty, dips it in corn muffin batter, tosses it in the deep fryer and then showers it in a maple syrup-like substance. It's called the Breakfast Lollypop ($3.50, served to 11 a.m.), and it miraculously manages to taste better than it sounds.
Follow your nose to Big Fat Bacon, where the name pretty much says it all. It's the fair's heart-attack-on-a-stick mentality in its most decadent form, just a linebacker-sized slice of smoky bacon ($4), baked and then fried to a tantalizingly crispy and chewy finish and served on a stick. It's ridiculous yet delicious overkill.
Think of the barely sweet, borderline chunky and altogether marvelous applesauce ($1) at Minnesota Apples as a gift from the palate-cleansing gods. It's made from late-season Regents and Cortlands harvested at Pine Tree Apple Orchard in White Bear Lake, and when it's not being used as a building block for the orchard's doughnuts and cakes (which, alas, are not sold at the fair), the surplus inventory is diverted to the fair, and its no-sugar-added taste and pale pink blush make for a lovely morning snack. Truly, there are few better ways to spend $1 at the fair.
Baked goodies
A handful of purveyors take a stab at the as-big-as-your-head cinnamon roll. Buni's Cinnamon Rolls adds crunchy pecans ($6) to its formula, and Cinnie Smiths specializes in golf ball-sized versions, stacking them inside cups ($5 and $8) for portable — and shareable — fun.
But the category's leader has to be Oklahoma Cinnamon Rolls, which has been making soft, yeasty, caramel-glazed, warm-from-the-oven rolls ($4) since 1982. They're big enough to feed a family of four, and something magical happens when a generous dollop of buttery icing starts to seep into those loosely rolled spirals. Forget about the calories, just enjoy. Owner Freddie Willis and his Tulsa-based crew also prepare a more-than-decent breakfast stromboli ($4.50 half, $6.50 whole, served to 11 a.m.), wrapping pizza dough around eggs, cheese and sausage or ham.