Some unconventional wisdom about wine

Here's the great thing about wine: It asks absolutely nothing of us. It does not demand or even require that we learn everything, or even anything, about it.

I choose to treat wine as a continuing-education course of sorts. Which means that along with learning a lot, I have had to "unlearn" some conventional wisdom along the way. To wit:

Conventional wisdom: Old wines should be decanted. Actually: Wines from the 20th century tend to fall apart rather quickly after being exposed to much oxygen. Young, tight reds are better targets for decanting. Before decanting any wine, taste it.

Conventional wisdom: With higher-end wines, it's risky to drink them young. Actually: In most cases (aside from some European and über-tannic California wines), the bigger risk is sitting on them for five or 10 years. Old wines often are interesting but not terribly tasty, and few wines that are "too" anything (tannic, fruity, acidic, oaky) upon release to "smooth out" and achieve balance with age. The vast majority of wines are meant to be consumed within a year or two after they hit the shelves.

Conventional wisdom: The way to assess a wine is by its aromas and initial flavors. Actually: I have become much more of a mid-palate and finish guy. I love sniffing wines -- some can be so enticing and exciting that I just want to sit and smell them -- but the weight, texture and flavors on the middle and back ends leave a more indelible and lasting impression.

Conventional wisdom: As with writing, the best way to become a good taster is to taste, taste and taste some more. Actually: OK, this one is true. But once one becomes somewhat familiar and adept with wines, it's more like tennis or chess: The best way to learn is to taste with someone who's more knowledgeable and discerning than you -- but preferably just a little bit more (and not a boor).

Conventional wisdom: Burgundy is hard to understand. Actually: Burgundy is impossible to understand. But that doesn't mean I won't keep on trying.

Conventional wisdom: Perfect pairings are tough, so choose the best wine you can. Actually: For the home cook, better results often can be achieved by working backward. Start with a dish in mind and taste the wine, then tweak the recipe to fit the juice: more black pepper on the meat for an Aussie shiraz, a bit of corn in the seafood bisque for a buttery chardonnay.

Conventional wisdom: When cooking, any old wine will do. Actually: Only use a wine you would drink. It's an ingredient, and you want the rest of the ingredients to be good, right? Anoka native/Duxoup winemaker Andy Cutter has the best rationale: "Never use crummy wine while cooking, because all it does is cook off the alcohol, and the only thing good about crummy wine is the alcohol."

Bill Ward • bill.ward@startribune.com