Sheet-pan chicken is the perfect picnic finger food, served warm or cold

Sheet-pan roasting is perfectly suited to summer cooking.

The technique is faster than fussing with the grill, and the food cooks quickly, before the kitchen becomes too hot. Cooked this way, chicken cuts emerge golden and tender and are as delicious served cold as they are warm.

The key is to get the sheet pan rocket hot and to space the chicken pieces far enough apart so they don't touch. This ensures they won't steam and allows them to develop a tasty crust. (Please do not use skinless cuts, as they'll turn dry and rubbery. The skin protects the meat and that layer of fat beneath it bastes and keeps the chicken moist.)

Dark meat cuts — legs and thighs — are best. They taste richer and are less likely to overcook. If you decide to serve them cold, remember that the flavor of the spices will fade and be less pronounced than when the chicken is served warm. Use a blend of bold, fragrant dry spices; fresh herbs should be added after cooking because they tend to burn.

Today's recipe calls for a simple curry seasoning. It's best applied the night before or a few hours ahead so the flavors are absorbed into the skin. A dry rub is far less messy than a wet marinade, yet just as effective. You might also try a Cajun or barbecue spice blend for variation. The chicken can be roasted a day or two in advance, then kept in the refrigerator until ready to serve. It's great with a tangy cilantro lime yogurt dip that can also be whisked together a day or two before.

Elegant and simple, cold chicken is easy-to-serve finger food that's picnic-perfect for hazy, lazy summer fun.

Serves 4 and easily doubled.

• 3 lb. bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs

• 2 tbsp. sunflower or vegetable oil

• 2 tbsp. curry spice rub (see recipe)

Directions

Bush the chicken with the oil and then generously coat with the curry spice rub. Place on a plate and cover; refrigerate for at least an hour or overnight.

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Place a layer of parchment paper over a sheet pan. Place the chicken thighs on the parchment paper. Roast until the chicken is cooked through, the juices run clear and the internal temperature reads 165 degrees on a digital thermometer. Remove the sheet pan from oven. If serving the chicken cold, allow it to cool to room temperature, then cover and store in the refrigerator until ready to serve.

Makes 1/2 cup.

Note: Keep this in a covered jar in a cool, dry cupboard. From Beth Dooley.

• 3 tbsp. curry powder

• 1 tbsp. coarse salt

• 2 tsp. ground coriander

• 1 tsp. turmeric

• 1 tsp. ground ginger

Directions

Put all the ingredients into a small jar with a lid and shake vigorously until completely blended.

Note: From Beth Dooley.

• 1/2 c. whole milk yogurt

• 1 to 2 tsp. fresh lime juice, to taste

• 2 tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro

• Pinch of salt, or to taste

Whisk all ingredients together in a small bowl. Refrigerate in a covered container for up to 3 days.