A good cut of wild Pacific salmon doesn't require much of the cook. Give it a quick sizzle in a hot pan and dinner is ready in minutes, perfect for a busy night.
Wild Alaska salmon is a bit costlier than farmed fish, but the flavor, texture and color make it well worth the price. The fish's pretty hue and distinct taste are thanks to the forage it hunts. Alaska fishermen harvest wild salmon each year from late spring through fall; the wild salmon in stores was flash-frozen on the boat as soon as it was caught. That process lowers the fishes' core temperature to 40 below, freezing it through before the cells begin to break down. They will remain "fresh" until thawed.
Right now, our stores offer three types of Alaskan salmon: King salmon, prized for its vibrant color, distinct taste and buttery texture; deep red sockeye salmon, which is slightly fattier with a stronger flavor; and coho salmon, the mildest and often the lightest in color. In terms of cooking, it really doesn't matter which Alaska salmon you choose, as they are interchangeable in most recipes. Pick the one you like best.
You can roast and grill salmon, but when I'm cooking for just a few of us, I'll use a heavy skillet to sear the flesh and crisp the skin. A little browned butter is a nice, nutty touch and lemon sparks things up, creating a pan sauce to swipe up with crusty bread. Served with a crisp green salad, this makes a simple yet elegant midweek meal.
Pan-roasted Salmon with Browned Butter and Herbed Sesame Seeds
Serves 2 (easily doubled).
Note: The only trick to cooking salmon is NOT to overcook. Bring the fillets to room temperature and make sure to pat them dry. Wait until the butter is foamy before adding the fillets. From Beth Dooley.
• 2 (6-oz.) skin-on salmon fillets
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
