For Sameh Wadi, chef/co-owner of the superb Saffron Restaurant & Lounge and quick-service World Street Kitchen, a foray into ice cream feels right.
"Well, duh," he said with a laugh. "Middle Eastern chef starts at fine dining and then goes to fast casual, so isn't ice cream the next logical step?"
He's calling the shop Milkjam (2743 Lyndale Av. S., Mpls.), christening it after a favorite flavor of his, sweetened milk flavored with vanilla and then cooked down until it reaches a caramel-like consistency. The shop's signature flavor will be a three-milk (goat, sheep and cow) ice cream swirled with milk jam.
With ice cream-obsessed Wadi at its helm, Milkjam will differ from other local ice cream shops in several ways. For starters, Wadi is planning on featuring three categories: an American (egg-free) version, a French (egg-based) custard and vegan variations, made with substitute milks (coconut, cashew) and enriched with plant-based fats.
"I'm personally most excited about the vegan ice creams," Wadi said. "I'm lactose-intolerant, although that doesn't stop me from eating ice cream. But with these vegan ice creams, I'll be able to overindulge and not hate myself the next day."
The scoop case will feature 16 flavors. At the start, the selection will include "Indian Elvis" (a blend of peanut butter, roasted bananas and curry-style seasonings), hibiscus-passion fruit, a huckleberry crumble and Champagne-and-sparkles because "why not?" Wadi said.
Along with cones, there will be the usual array of sundaes, malts and shakes. Because Milkjam is adjacent to World Street Kitchen — the two share an entry — the shop will tap into the restaurant's wine and beer license. Translation: Champagne and beer floats. "I think we're the only local ice cream shop that can do that," Wadi said.
Milkjam will be open daily, but the hours aren't carved in stone just yet; probably noon to 9 or 10 p.m. "I've never opened an ice cream shop, so I have no idea what I'm doing," Wadi said with a laugh.
