SALT-CRUSTED VENISON WITH FRESH JUNIPER AND WILD CRANBERRY REDUCTION

November 26, 2008 at 5:56PM

SALT-CRUSTED VENISON WITH FRESH JUNIPER AND WILD CRANBERRY REDUCTION

Serves 4.

Note: Juniper berries can be found in the spice section of some grocery stores, at Penzeys (three locations), and at some kitchen specialty stores. Do not use berries from your own shrubs because some types are not safe to eat. For the piece of juniper, use only if you have the Common Juniper variety (it grows wild over the northern part of the state). It's for extra flavoring and isn't critical to the success of the recipe (it provides aroma). As for the grape leaves, use these only if you have them on the vine, or stick with the herbs.

• 11/2 lb. venison loin

• 1 tbsp. olive oil

• 2 tbsp. maple syrup, divided

• 12 crushed juniper berries, divided (see Note)

• 2 c. apple cider

• 8 oz. cranberries, preferably wild high-bush cranberries

• 1 (4-in.) frond of fresh juniper, optional

• 10 twists cracked black pepper

• 1 tbsp. butter

• 32/3 c. kosher salt

• 11/2 c. flour

• 1/2 c. lightly packed snipped fresh juniper, optional

• 6 egg whites (3/4 cup plus 2 tbsp. )

• 2 to 4 tsp. water

• 1 c. of mixed leafy herbs, such as sage, oregano or flat leaf parsley, or 2 fresh grape leaves (see Note)

Directions

Marinate the venison loin with the olive oil, 1 tablespoon maple syrup and half of the crushed juniper berries. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight.

Combine the apple cider and cranberries and bring to a simmer. Cook until the liquid reduces enough to be level with the cranberries, about 30 minutes. Add the juniper piece and let steep.

Drain through a fine mesh sieve without pushing down on the cranberries, reserving the reduced juice. Discard cranberries and juniper, add the pepper and remaining 1 tablespoon maple syrup, and whisk the butter into the sauce and reserve.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Whisk together the salt, flour, snipped fresh juniper and remaining crushed juniper berries. Whip the egg whites until frothy and add to the salt mixture. Mix well and dribble in water until the dough begins to hold together, just as for pie crust.

Lay down a thin layer of salt dough on a sheet tray. Enclose the meat in the grape leaf (or in the leafy herbs), lay it on the salt dough and pat the rest of the dough around the meat, closing all holes. Poke a meat thermometer into the meat and remove, leaving a hole.

Bake until the internal temperature reaches 130 degrees, about 25 minutes. (Go by temperature rather than baking time.) The meat will be between medium-rare and medium. (Pull it at 125 degrees if you want it fully medium-rare.) Crack the crust, remove the loin and rest for 10 minutes before slicing thinly and serving with the sauce.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories335Fat8 gSodium310 mg

Carbohydrates25 gSaturated fat4 gCalcium33 mg

Protein39 gCholesterol150 mgDietary fiber3 g

Diabetic exchanges per serving: 1 1/2 fruit, 5 1/2 lean meat.

VENISON RILLETTES WITH FALL HERBS

Serves 12 or more, as an appetizer.

Note: Ask your butcher for fatback and pork belly.

• 11/2 lb. venison, preferably from the haunch or shoulder

• 11/2 lb. pork butt or shoulder

• 1 lb. fatback or fatty fresh pork belly (see Note)

• 3 dried bay leaves

• 5 leaves fresh sage

• 4 sprigs fresh thyme

• 1 tsp. black peppercorns

• 2 cloves

• 1/2-in. slice fresh ginger root

• 1 tbsp. salt

Directions

Cut the venison, pork butt and fatback into 2-inch cubes. Place in a large sauce pot and add water to cover. Bring to a boil and drain. This removes all impurities from the meat.

Place the bay leaves, sage, thyme, peppercorns, cloves and ginger in the center of a cheesecloth square and tie with kitchen string. Add to the meat, along with the salt.

Cover and cook the meat over low heat in the melting fat. Simmer for 3 hours, stirring periodically, until the meat is tender and begins to fall apart.

Drain the meat in a colander set over a bowl to catch the liquid. Reserve both. Place the meat in a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment and paddle until shredded. (Or smash meat with a potato masher until shredded.)

Ladle out 1/3 cup clear reserved fat, saving it for sealing the jars. Pour the remaining fat and juice into the meat, mixing to incorporate.

Let the meat cool to room temperature before packing into clean glass jars. Top with the fat to store, but remove before serving. Refrigerate and consume within 10 days. Best eaten at room temperature on hot toast or bread.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories180Fat7 gSodium650 mg

Carbohydrates0 gSaturated fat3 gCalcium15 mg

Protein27 gCholesterol94 mgDietary fiber0 g

Diabetic exchanges per serving: 4 lean meat.

HUNTER'S PIE WITH PARSNIP SOUFFLÉ TOPPING

Serves 6.

•1/4 lb. (3 thick slices) bacon, cut into 1/2 -in. thick pieces

• 2 lb. venison stew meat, preferably from the haunch or shoulder

• Salt and pepper

• 8 oz. wild mushrooms (shiitake, lobster, chanterelle or oyster)

• 8 tbsp. butter (1 stick), divided

• 1 medium onion, cut into large dice

• 1 small tomato, peeled, seeded and diced

• 3 cloves garlic, sliced

• 1/3 c. port wine

• 2 c. chicken stock

• 10 twists cracked black pepper

• 1/2 tsp. minced fresh rosemary, or 1 tsp. dried rosemary

• 1/4 c. plus 1 tbsp. flour, divided

• 1 lb. parsnips, peeled, halved and sliced 1/4- in. thick

• 1 c. whole milk

• 7 large egg whites, about 1 c.

Directions

Brown the bacon in a wide, high-sided pot and remove, reserving the fat. Season the venison with 1/4 teaspoon salt and a few twists of black pepper. Brown the meat quickly in the bacon fat and remove.

Add the mushrooms and 3 tablespoons butter, cook until lightly browned and remove, leaving the fat in the pan. Add the onion and cook until tender and lightly browned. Add the tomato and garlic and cook until softened. Add the port and cook until reduced by half.

Return the venison to the pan, add the chicken stock, 1/2 teaspoon salt, black pepper and rosemary.

Cook, covered and on a low simmer, until extremely tender, about 21/2 hours. In the last 30 minutes, return the mushrooms to the stew. Mash 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon flour together to a paste. Whisk into the hot stew and bring to a simmer until it thickens slightly. Cover tightly, remove from heat and reserve for 1 hour to let the lean venison tenderize further.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Meanwhile, cover the parsnips with water and 1/4 teaspoon salt and cook at a simmer until very tender, about 45 minutes. Drain, discarding liquid.

Combine the milk, 1/4 cup flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt and remaining 4 tablespoons butter and cook, whisking, over medium heat until smooth and thickened. Combine the flour mixture and drained parsnips in a food processor and process until smooth.

Whip the egg whites with a mixer until the foam holds its peak when the beater is upturned. Mix one-fourth of the egg whites into the parsnip mixture. In two additions, fold in the remaining egg whites with a spatula until no large streaks remain.

Transfer stew to an oven-safe serving dish and top with the soufflé mixture.

Bake for 35 minutes, or until the top has browned.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories565Fat28 gSodium1,063 mg

Carbohydrates30 gSaturated fat15 gCalcium103 mg

Protein47 gCholesterol180 mgDietary fiber4 g

Diabetic exchanges per serving: 2 bread/starch, 6 lean meat, 2 fat.

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