Here is my journal entry from that memorable day:
2/25/09 – Komodo Island
This morning was a scenic sail-in to Slawi Bay, Komodo, Indonesia. Mist surrounded the volcanic island with 2000-foot craggy mountains, brilliant green from recent rains. As the haze lifted, the sun shined brightly and intensely and I eagerly joined others on an Island Trek in search of Komodo dragons. The oldest fossils of these creatures date back 130 million years, and they have been nearly extinct for millions of years, except on Komodo and a few neighboring islands.
Komodo is one of the 17,508 islands that make up the Republic of Indonesia. The residents of this island are mostly descendants of former convicts, exiled to the island. But the more famous and notable residents are the Komodo dragons, neither a dinosaur nor a dragon, but rather a type of fierce monitor lizard. About 1,500 of them roam the island freely in the Komodo National Park (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), where they are a protected species. These are the world's largest lizards, which grow to an average of between 6 to 10 feet long and weigh an average of 150 pounds, but some reach up to 300 pounds. The dragons' diet consists mainly of Timor deer, goats, and wild boar, but the dragons will hunt an ambush birds, snakes, monkeys, and wild horses. Most shocking is that they practice cannibalism, feasting on each other.
This trip came with serious warnings: More important than their size, Komodo dragon jaws are very powerful, and both their teeth and talons are as sharp as razor blades. Their saliva hosts a deadly bacterium that quickly infects and disables prey. Their tails also are dangerous weapons and can deliver a strong blow. We were told that the dragons rarely attack humans; however, they could gobble down an adult in a matter of minutes. Their jaws are hinged much like those of a snake, making it easy to swallow large animals. Agile and swift, the dragons have been clocked at speeds of 12 miles per hour, so we were advised not to venture too close. We were also told that they normally will not attack unless provoked.
Visitors are not allowed to explore the island freely. Instead, a trained park guide must accompany them. Each of our slender Indonesian guides was armed with a primitive weapon, a branch about 8 feet long and 1 ½ inches in diameter, with a forked end. The guide assigned to my group explained that the sticks were used to poke the animals in the nose, which is their most sensitive area, and that they were along to protect us.
Before the steamy trek began, we were given another incentive to stay with the group and to follow the rules. One guide lost his hand a couple years ago. The day before our visit, a dragon wandered into the park ranger's office and attacked him. The injuries were severe, and the man was transported to Java for partial leg amputation. I began to wonder if this trip was a good idea.
But mostly, it seemed like a peaceful place. The uneven dirt path took us through an aromatic field of lemon balm, past orchids blooming from curly stems attached to tall palms, as well as other native trees. There were sounds of all sorts of birds – squawking cockatoos, Imperial pigeons, orioles, sunbirds, flowerpeckers, and noisy friarbirds – with enormous crows flying overhead. We did not encounter any of the deadly snakes, including cobras that also inhabit the island. But we did see several giant insects, including enormous spiders.
