Running around Des Moines, an Iowa city filled with art, food and fun

I used to say the best way to see a city was to stay downtown and go for a run. You get in a workout, and you are able to see what a city has to offer. I don't run as much as I used to, but on a stay in Des Moines I got caught up in a downtown 5K, which proved to be a perfect introduction to the Iowa capital.

I began my fall morning setting out from the downtown Marriott, hoping to see the famed Pappajohn Sculpture Park. The free 4.4-acre park sits at what may be considered the entrance to downtown. More than two dozen works of art grace the setting. Some, such as the giant torso of steel letters by Spanish artist Jaume Plensa, tower over the park; others, such as a white tree by Ugo Rondinone, offer a surprise around a hedge. The park opened in 2009 and features work by celebrated artists including Keith Haring and Richard Serra. You can take guided tours to learn more, or dial in for a free audio tour.

I roamed around the park for about an hour, appreciating pieces like a casting of Barry Flanagan's "Thinker on a Rock." As I got to the far end, I could hear a low, booming voice on a sound system, and I looked down the street to a herd of runners setting off from the start of a race. I hopped to the sidewalk and followed their route down Locust Street. I later learned this was the annual Capital Pursuit 5K.

I traveled with the pack down Locust, with the huge central dome of the State Capitol seeming closer than it was. I passed my hotel and more than a few murals, and by the time I passed Cowles Commons, the runners had passed me by and I was hanging with the walkers. Cowles Commons was designed in 2015 and contains the huge sculpture "Crusoe Umbrella" by Claes Oldenburg and the LED light sculpture "Swirl" by Jim Campbell. The gathering space sits in front of the Des Moines Performing Arts building, where upcoming shows include Chelsea Handler and "Hamilton."

The racers veered off, toward the riverfront. With more artwork, well-groomed greenspaces and the Principal Riverwalk trail, the Des Moines River area is a great place to hang out on an afternoon.

I headed back up Grand Avenue. I had seen the race's leaders going in that direction. Along Grand, I spotted more murals and the famed Travelers sign. The red neon sign with the huge umbrella has been a local icon since 1963. It sits atop the 10-story Insurance Exchange Building. The 5K ended back at the sculpture park, just past the blocklong Central Library.

After my morning "race," I was ready to explore more of Des Moines. Here are some highlights.

A small slice of horticulture heaven in downtown. It's only 14 acres, but it packs a lot into that space, with sculptures amid the rose garden, savanna, water gardens and more. There are also a handful of indoor areas, including a geodesic dome. ($10, dmbotanicalgarden.com)

Just across the river you'll find the hip East Village neighborhood. Along the river are an ice rink and the Simon Estes Amphitheater, where musical acts perform in warmer months. The streets are filled with boutiques, none more famous than Raygun, whose pithy T-shirt quotes have made it a phenomenon. It bills itself as "the greatest store in the universe," and it may be.

Nightclubs and trendy restaurants round out the area. Try brunch at the Breakfast Club. A great '80s soundtrack pulses as guests sip Bloody Marys and mimosa flights in this too-cool-for-the-actual-'80s kitschy diner with sass. I'm pretty sure I had the best breakfast of my life here: the Notorious B&G: a cheddar jalapeño biscuit with the most unusual gravy, a fried egg and bacon.

Towering over the East Village (really the whole city) is the shiny 23-karat gold dome of the Capitol. Free tours, given six days a week, explain Iowa's history and show off some pretty impressive art and architecture. Don't miss the giant mural "Westward" at the top of the grand stairs. Painted by Edwin H. Blashfield, it covers almost the whole east wall. Even if you can't secure a tour reservation, take some time to walk around the grounds, which are dotted with monuments and statues. (legis.iowa.gov/resources/tourCapitol)

If the Pappajohn garden was any indication, I knew I had to see the related art center, which focuses on contemporary and modern art. Inside the main building, designed by Eliel Saarinen and opened in 1948, you will find works by Monet, Matisse and Rodin, plus Georgia O'Keefe and Ai Weiwei. For me, the modernist addition designed by I.M. Pei had the most interesting mix of paintings, prints and sculptures. Bonus: It's free. (desmoinesartcenter.org)