Potato salad, a beloved summertime dish, is about simplicity, ease and flexibility.
There are hundreds of different recipes, but all rely on choosing the right potatoes. Be sure to use the waxy variety, not floury bakers that can become mushy. Choose small, firm and very fresh local spuds, which are in season right now in our co-ops and farmers markets.
The flavor of fresh new potatoes is distinctly better than those of mature potatoes on grocers' shelves. Most of those potatoes have been "cured," or held in a controlled environment for two weeks to toughen up the peels so they store well. Fresh local spuds are sold right after harvest. They're higher in moisture with a pleasingly bitter, nutty, earthy taste.
Look for Yukon gold, red bliss, new white potatoes, fingerlings and any of the heirloom varieties. Ideally, they should be small enough that you need only to halve or quarter them to fit on a fork.
Roasting instead of boiling the potatoes adds a toasty dimension to salads; it's also a great way to finish the potatoes you cooked for dinner last night. Regardless of whether they're boiled, roasted or grilled, potatoes are best dressed in bold flavors — a sharp vinaigrette or a snappy mustard-spiked mayonnaise and lots of chopped herbs (try a mix of basil, parsley, dill or whatever you like). Hold back on the onions, as they tend to overpower the flavors, and instead choose young spring onions or scallions for verve. You might toss in green or black olives or capers for a briny boost.
Potato salads can be prepared a day ahead and kept in a covered bowl in the refrigerator. Before serving, give them a little time to come to room temperature, allowing the flavors to open up. They're even better served at picnic temperature on the beach.
Roast Potato Salad
Serves 4 to 6.
Note: This simple salad is chock-full of bold flavors and fresh herbs. The black olives give it a briny snap. While the potatoes roast, whisk together the vinaigrette and prepare the other ingredients. Toss the cooked potatoes with the vinaigrette while warm; they'll absorb more of the vinaigrette. Because this salad is mayo-free, you can pack it for a picnic or share it at a potluck. Use a mix of new red, gold and fingerling potatoes. From Beth Dooley.
• 1 lb. fresh new potatoes
• 1 tbsp. sunflower or olive oil
• Pinch or two of coarse salt
• 1 tsp. Dijon mustard
• 1 small clove garlic, minced
• 2 tbsp. white-wine vinegar
• 1/4 c. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 stalks green onions, trimmed and thinly sliced
• 1/4 c. pitted, sliced black olives
• 1/4 c. mixed chopped parsley, basil or dill, or a combination
• Salt and freshly cracked pepper, to taste
• Pinch red pepper flakes
Directions
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Cut the potatoes in half or quarters, depending on size. Put them into a bowl and toss with the sunflower or olive oil. Sprinkle with the coarse salt. Spread the potatoes out on the baking sheet and roast, turning occasionally, until nicely browned on all sides, about 20 to 25 minutes.
While the potatoes are roasting, make the vinaigrette. In a small bowl, whisk together the mustard, garlic and vinegar, then add the oil.
When the potatoes are cooked, turn into a large bowl and dress with the vinaigrette to generously coat. Allow the potatoes to come to room temperature, tossing occasionally, then toss in the green onions, black olives and herbs, and season to taste with salt, freshly ground black pepper and a pinch of red pepper flakes.
Beth Dooley is the author of "The Perennial Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.
