GRAND MARAIS, Minn. – Lake Superior, propelled by a spring nor'easter, throws waves and aquamarine shards of ice onto the rocky shore a dozen yards from a modest shake-sided house.
Two years ago, after decades of living on a tree-lined avenue in Falcon Heights, Duane Hasegawa and Barb Heideman moved here for good.
Heideman's North Shore roots go deep. Her great-grandfather cobbled shoes in Duluth. An old photo shows her mother by a tar-papered tourist cabin in Silver Bay. "I have the old enamel coffeepot they always used, so it's come full circle," said Heideman, 60, a retired chemical engineer.
"You get drawn to the lake," she said. "For me, it's the rocks, and the further up the shore you go, the rocks get bigger. The cliffs get bigger. Planting a tree is pretty hard."
Planting anything, for that matter. Hasegawa, 66, a Denver native who spent 39 years as a pediatrician specializing in oncology and hematology, studied to become a master gardener when he retired. He's ready to go.
"But what we really need is dirt," he said, illustrating a cautionary tale about the North Woods dream: You need to think about things you never imagined having to think about.
The rich, black dirt of their old neighborhood is a daydream here. "Pretty much the only garden tool up here is a pickax," Heideman said.
But when one of the things you most miss about the Twin Cities is garden tomatoes, you keep trying.