Fhima's, Minneapolis Cafe, LoTo, Louis XIII -- David Fhima has been around the block once or twice. His rise -- and subsequent fall -- in the local restaurant scene have been much publicized. This summer Fhima is back, in a newer, subtler way.

Opened in June, his Faces Mears Park is a more focused endeavor. Overextension in the LoTo days cost him the oversight necessary to ensure 100 percent quality, and Fhima is determined to regain that control this time around.

A few vestiges of his flashy style remain: He previewed the new digs with a big, see-and-be-seen two-day party. LoTo's large, sunny location has been reimagined as a sprawling, four-in-one-concept space. Between the bottle shop, espresso/wine bar, big restaurant with chef's table and low-key market/deli, Fhima still wants to do it all.

Faces' food options span the gamut of American fusion tradition, using organic and sustainable ingredients when available. Complimentary Gougère (small popovers with the tang of gruyere) provided a light, pleasant introduction to a meal; homemade fries ($3) were accompanied by a nicely flavored aioli and sweet artisan ketchup. Rice cakes ($11), unlike the air-crisped grocery store version, carry some heft and provide a chewy vehicle for a caper-studded tuna tartare. The Burger Trio ($6) comprises three sliders with lightly grilled buns and plenty of juicy, meaty flavor -- a toned-down sample of Fhima's full-size burger.

While the appetizers we sampled were consistently tasty, other parts of the menu were a bit more variable. Pizzas featured a light, crispy crust, high-quality cheese and flavorful toppings -- although one sample was slightly salty and the other could best be described as a salt bomb. A chicken Monte Cristo ($7.50) combines a lemon thyme aioli, gruyere and pulled organic chicken on crispy challah -- a nicely flavored (though salty) combination that could have benefited from a few fresh vegetables. To Fhima's credit, any dish served with fries is available with organic greens instead.

Better bets were a simple, lightly dressed California salad ($7.50) and "THE Burger" ($8.50), an impossibly tall sandwich which seems to challenge a diner to ingest each of its many flavors together in one bite. Though the "panko-breaded" onion slice on top was a bit heavier than one might expect, its sweetness combined with just-crispy-enough bacon, gruyere, lettuce, tomatoes and a zippy dijon mayo brought the whole dish together.

A $3 happy hour provides good value -- a basic red and white wine serve their purpose for the price, while a Leinie's Honey Weiss is the bright spot among the beers. Add in a few $4 appetizers, and you'll have a cheap, tasty meal.