Based solely on looks, Darbar India Grill fits right into its energetic Uptown surroundings. The place possesses the brand of contemporary stylishness that could serve as a challenge on "HGTV Design Star," all cool golds and creams, set off by splashes of color yanked straight off the kitchen's spice rack. There's a watch-them-work portal in the rear dining room, where diners can catch a glimpse of how a commercial tandoor oven works, and the room is ringed by enormous windows that offer genuine cityscape views, a Twin Cities rarity.
My first visit was underwhelming, food-wise. The menu is one of those enormous six-page encyclopedias, where different proteins (lamb, shrimp, chicken, beef) receive similar treatment (vindaloo, madrasi, curry, masala), and prices rarely steer north of the lower teens. If the format exudes familiarity, there's a reason; it's borrowed from India Palace, owner Diljit Singh's thriving suburban chain. Everything I tasted was fine -- boilerplate Minnesota Indian -- just not terribly special, or unusual or game-changing.
I was feeling sort of baited-and-switched; Darbar may be the best-looking Indian restaurant in town, but the food isn't all that different from its competitors. Turns out I was, characteristically, missing the point. A friend clued me in.
"I get the onion naan, fill them with the Seekh kebabs and turn it into the best lamb burger in town," he said. I took his advice, and he was absolutely right. The naans are great -- puffy, slightly blistered, piping hot, brushed with butter and filled with all manner of complementary goodies, from garlic and cilantro to raisins and coconut. And the kebabs turned out to be an exceptional house-made sausage -- tender, generously seasoned and expertly grilled. The combination was a total treat.
I also loved the fajita-style tandoor items -- you know, sizzling hot, on a bed of tomatoes and onions. The selection includes a fantastic chicken, seared on the outside, juicy and flavorful inside, as well as yogurt-marinated scallops and enormous snappy shrimp, all served with a jalapeño-laced mint sauce. They're terrific, and they make me wonder: Why not skip the expected, and give us more of this unexpected? They do the latter so well.
