Local interest in Japanese food seems to be expanding, if not actually moving on. Sushi is still popular, but izakaya-style pub grub is coming into its own. Hence the recent opening of the Tim McKee-launched, sustainable fish-focused Masu Sushi & Robata.

There's quite a lot to like about Masu. From its clear concept to its whip-smart Japanese pop-culture interior to its quirky, well-executed food, the place feels legitimately cosmopolitan. Japanese kewpie dolls, pachinko machines and gorgeous sake bottle dispensers above the bar contribute to an otherworldly feel, and a well-trained staff does a consistent job of interpreting everything from the menu's shôchû "gummi" drinks, to the hospitality overflow pour of sake, to concept of robata.

While showcasing its sushi offerings, Masu equally emphasizes intriguing small plates, numerous robata skewers and serious noodle offerings. The menu ranges widely and borders on the overwhelming, but it's organized well enough that an experienced diner should be able to patch together a well-rounded meal.

Multiple visits revealed some stunning strengths and occasional inconsistencies. The Firecracker Roll ($14) was recommended by our waitress, and it impressed our table. Rice is what sets OK sushi apart from the good stuff, and this stuff was perfectly tender with a mild sweet/vinegar flavor. The texture and taste balance of the roll (between buttery avocado, crunchy shrimp tempura, crisp cucumber and tempura flakes) was spot on, and it lacked the clown-car overambition that is the undoing of so many big rolls at many so-so sushi restaurants. Also worth noting is Masu's house-ground wasabi paste, which sticks out thanks to its pale green color and deep, nuanced flavor.

Our experiences with noodles varied. The pork belly ramen ($11), was underwhelming -- the broth tasted underpowered and the pork belly itself was floppy and not particularly flavorful. The tonkatsu curry ramen ($10.50) featured crispy breaded pork and couldn't have been more different. It was a rich, gorgeous, balanced dish, with the softness of the poached egg standing up against the freshness of its greens, and the crunchy pork maintaining its texture even in the flavorful broth.

Sake fans will likely adore the sake menu, which is explanatory without being pedantic, and plays up the poetic beauty of the various brands and styles (10,000 Ways, True Mirror, Cabin in the Snow, etc.). I thought Seven Spearsmen to be reasonably priced and excellent, but follow your own preferences. The menu is clear enough to help guide you toward your preferred sake experience (mineral, woodsy, melon-like, pear-like and so forth -- the descriptors are precise but also accurate and believable). Most sakes come in 4-, 12- and 24-oz. sizes, which makes hangover management a relative breeze.

Famed former Town Talk bartender Nick Kosevich rides again on Monday. He's back from Milwaukee to host a Surdyk's class on Bombay gin mixology featuring "a sensorial experience with 10 botanicals." (6:30-8:30 p.m. Mon. $22. Ginger Hop. www.surdyks.com.)