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Restaurants: Goodbye Saffron, hello Saffron

August 17, 2012 at 8:56PM
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Goodbye Saffron, hello Saffron

Major changes are coming to Saffron Restaurant & Lounge.

"It's a project that went from, 'Hey, we should get new tables' to 'We're going to have a new restaurant,'" chef/co-owner Sameh Wadi said with a laugh. White tablecloths are out and smaller wood-topped tables are coming in, along with a dramatic Moroccan-inspired wine storage unit, new chandeliers and lanterns and a semi-private dining area.

As for the menu, Wadi is widening his Middle Eastern-North African focus and embracing the flavors and traditions of Spain, Greece, Turkey and Italy. Much of the inspiration is coming from a cookbook that Wadi's parents wrote but never published in the 1980s.

"It's called 'The Encyclopedia of Palestinian Cuisines,' and it's thousands of pages, handwritten by my father," Wadi said. "The more I dug into it, the more I wanted to showcase the recipes my parents were making 25 years ago."

Wadi is ditching 90 percent of his current menu and replacing it with a larger number of moderately priced small-plate options -- chicken-porcini croquettes, green beans slow-cooked in tomatoes, air-dried beef cured with fenugreek and paprika -- plus larger dishes like a duck leg tagine and whole-roasted fish, Greek taverna-style. Also coming: Wadi's fantastic lamb bacon BLT.

"We're going to continue to cook fine-dining food, but we're not going to act like it's fine dining," he said.

The five-year-old restaurant is closing after Saturday's dinner and reopening July 6.

about the writer

about the writer

Rick Nelson

Reporter

Rick Nelson joined the staff of the Star Tribune in 1998. He is a Twin Cities native, a University of Minnesota graduate and a James Beard Award winner. 

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