Restaurants: Down-home eats

Two Minneapolis eateries add flavor to their neighborhoods.

August 17, 2012 at 8:56PM
Chuck Noble displays the Humus Wrap and Basic Burger at Bread & Pickle
Chuck Noble displays the Humus Wrap and Basic Burger at Bread & Pickle (Margaret Andrews/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Bread & Pickle comes to Lake Harriet

If I were to conjure up my ideal food stand for the fanciful pavilion next to the Lake Harriet bandshell in southwest Minneapolis, it would probably resemble Bread & Pickle. At this role model of a new enterprise -- the work of restaurant guru Kim Bartmann, she of the Bryant-Lake Bowl, Red Stag Supperclub and Barbette -- lovely touches abound, so much so that they give a person hope that the Minneapolis Park & Recreation Board is starting to understand that good food is a key component of a sterling parks system.

My infatuation began on a humid afternoon with a refreshing Arnie Palmer -- not to mention a hibiscus-flavored punch -- that was such a welcome change from the dreary Coke/Diet-Coke/Sprite world we find ourselves living in. A breakfast egg sandwich, stacked high with shavings of an insanely good ham, is incentive enough to finish that around-the-lake a.m. walk; ditto the fruit-packed blueberry muffins.

I'd make a regular habit of the chicken salad sandwich, a paragon of simplicity, just a generous portion of flavorful forked meat mixed with bits of crunchy celery and lively tarragon, all held together with traces of mayonnaise and layered inside a soft ciabatta roll. Nothing wrong with the two-fisted burgers, the snappy all-beef hot dog and the enormous roast turkey sandwiches.

Vegetarians aren't forgotten. The egg salad sandwich is a keeper, with plenty of hard-cooked egg tossed with a garden's worth of dill and scooped into slices of tangy sourdough. And count me a fan of the spinach wrap swiped with gutsy hummus and filled with fresh vegetables.

More pluses: The operation is so green-fixated that I wouldn't be surprised if it appeared on a list of the city's recycling sites. The accommodating staff is composed by a platoon of hyper-nice school-age workers. The cash register accepts plastic. Espresso drinks are created with care. And Bartmann has the good sense to stock her scoop case with some of the region's best ice creams, from Sonny's and Izzy's.

There's one downside: prices. Not that the quality doesn't justify it, but a $6.75 quick-service cheeseburger has got to look steep to a beach-loving city kid. I imagine that one taste will make them converts.

Pop! out, Hazel's in

Brothers Adam and Andrew Sieve grew up in the restaurant business. Specifically, the Traveler's Inn Restaurant in Alexandria, Minn., owned by their dad and uncle and, before them, grandparents Ben and Helen "Hazel" Sieve. After careers in banking and education, the brothers have returned to the family business. Late last year they landed in northeast Minneapolis, delivering comfort-food-with-a-twist at the former Pop! I felt a great deal of affection toward the quirky, fun-loving Pop! and I'm happy to report that I'm feeling the love toward Hazel's Northeast, too.

The Sieves' mind-set can be summed up in a single dish. It's a magnificent open-faced sandwich they call the Turkey Commercial, which is a mountain of succulent dark and white roasted bird, mounded high on a pile of mashed potatoes, which is in turn resting on a slice of thick-cut white bread. The whole shebang is smothered in a rich, just-like-Mom-made gravy, with a side of orange-accented cranberry sauce. It's $10, and it seems impossible that it could be consumed by someone in a single seating.

The brothers are serving the foods they grew up eating: Nothing fancy, but wholly satisfying, and made from scratch. There's a well-seasoned and expertly braised pulled pork sandwich, a half-dozen variations on the burger, and a host of salads. Breakfast swings from feisty black bean cakes topped with poached eggs to granola pancakes topped with fruit compote, and dinner includes tasty ground lamb skewers paired with a cucumber-tomato relish, a plate of Swedish meatballs (a Pop! classic, reborn) and a daily risotto.

Sure, I hit a few misfires (the too-salty soups). The sweet-sweet-sweet desserts' most notable qualities are their ample proportions. The cute space is peppered with eye-catching works by local artists. It's tough to find a price over $13, and the majority fall under $10. Service epitomizes Minnesota Nice. Hazel would probably have demanded nothing less.

Granola infused cakes with a mixed berry compote from Hazel's are a big hit
Granola infused cakes with a mixed berry compote from Hazel's are a big hit (Margaret Andrews/The Minnesota Star Tribune)
about the writer

about the writer

Rick Nelson

Reporter

Rick Nelson joined the staff of the Star Tribune in 1998. He is a Twin Cities native, a University of Minnesota graduate and a James Beard Award winner. 

See Moreicon