Samson Benti is hard to miss. You could be walking aimlessly through the Uptown Farmers Market or scurrying down Marquette Avenue with anything but sambusas on the brain, but sooner or later Benti's infectious cheer will catch you by the ear and lead you to the She Royal food truck (Twitter: @sheroyalcoco). And you will eat a sambusa -- or some curry, or a platter of veggies, or a gyro -- and you will knock yourself in the head for not getting there sooner.

Some may call Benti's truck, an unadorned white model with a small logo on its side, spartan or even boring. The truck's starkness distinguishes it in a scene dominated by snappy paint jobs and exuberant chalkboard typography. It might be all those seasons of "Mad Men" talking, but it's certainly refreshing to see a design that's so guileless.

In a region woefully lean on Ethiopian restaurants, She Royal fills the niche of the gateway drug, before one moves on to the harder stuff at Fasika and T's Place. You may find yourself snorting lines of berbere before long.

If you can get them, the sambusas ($3 for two) are really, really addictive. With just a hint of spice, the sambusas come in both beefy and vegetarian incarnations, and both are great. Top them with the truck's hot sauce and you've got the spiritual essence of street food in your clutches. We sampled them at She Royal's appearance at the Northern Spark festival, but haven't seen them on the menu since. Please bring them back!

Northern Spark was also where we had our first taste of the chicken curry ($7). To shake off the haze of drunken reminiscence, we tried it again recently and were absolutely thrilled with it. The chicken is baked first, and then incorporated into the curry. One would assume that this would make it a dry, mealy nightmare, but it was so, so tender! This simple dish of chicken, curry goodness, injera and rice will have you sighing and begging for more.

Since Benti first fired up She Royal's adventures in mobile food, the veggie sampler ($7) has been and will always remain our favorite on the menu. We dare say it's the most beautiful of all the mobile entrees in the region. The vegetables rotate frequently, depending on what's available; we've seen beets, collards, cabbage, lentils and split peas so far. And every time, it feels so novel to receive a pile of diverse vegetables from a food truck.

On a recent visit, we also tried the Philly cheese steak sandwich ($7), which came down to gyro meat, swiss cheese, onions and lettuce in a long roll. All in all, it was decent. Unfortunately, "decent" just can't hold its own in a menu full of exceptional dishes. The sandwich is probably a concession to potential customers who aren't the most adventurous eaters -- most restaurants have at least one such dish. If you're one of those people, do yourself a favor and get this sandwich as it was meant to be: a gyro ($7).