When I was growing up in Burnsville during the 1970s, my family's dining-out options were pretty much limited to McDonald's, Perkins and, if the folks were splurging, Mr. Steak.
Fast-forward 30-plus years, and restaurant choices in the southern suburbs have exponentially expanded. Unfortunately, most continue to remain in the corporate chain vein.
That's why Mendoberri Cafe & Wine Bar in Mendota Heights stands out, in the very best way. Unlike the Brand X school of suburban chain dining, there's an actual chef/co-owner on site -- Robert Ulrich -- and he's producing appealing food that caters to the surrounding area. In many Minneapolis and St. Paul neighborhoods, this notion wouldn't raise an eyelash among residents of Yelp Nation. But in Dakota County, it's borderline revolutionary. If I lived and/or worked nearby, I'd be constantly dropping in for takeout, a meal, a drink -- or all of the above.
The uncomplicated fare emphasizes locally sourced ingredients and is designed to cover a wide range of demographic needs. It's especially adept at catering to wine-sipping noshers. The pizza oven, a holdover from the previous tenant, turns out oval-shaped pies built on thin, bubbled crusts generously topped with fresh ingredients -- different enough that they don't compete with the deep-dish pizzeria next door.
That same pleasing wafer-style crust doubles as flatbread crackers for a colorful plate of flavor-infused cream cheese spreads. I loved the velvety smoked salmon, served with all the right accoutrements. Ditto the ultra-affordable cheese plate. Oh, and Ulrich knows his way around a crab cake, packing them with sweet jumbo crab meat and little else, then finishing them with a saffron-kissed aioli.
During the day, Mendoberri goes counter-service, concentrating on a few well-prepared salads and sandwiches made on New French Bakery breads. That pizza oven roasts up flavorful, family farm-raised turkey and beef, which Ulrich skillfully turns into memorably tasty Reuben and Rachel sandwiches, filled with pungent, house-made sauerkraut and a killer Thousand Island dressing.
In the salad department, best are the fresh field greens, dressed with orange segments, a few crisp potato croquettes and a lightly sweet sherry-honey vinaigrette. Next time I'm down with a cold, I'm medicating on Ulrich's chicken soup, with its bold chicken-ey broth, an abundance of thick-cut carrots and a garnish consisting of a thin pancake sliced into ribbons, which any self-respecting carb freak can quickly learn to love.
Regulars have reasons to make a habit out of certain weeknights. On Mondays it's all about burgers; big, juicy, grass-fed beefers, topped with all manner of deliciousness, from zingy horseradish to a sweet/savory onion marmalade. On Tuesdays and Thursdays, Ulrich gets into the rotisserie chicken business, finishing them in the pizza oven until the skin is irresistibly crisp.
