Hot dogs at Tilia. Photo by Tom WallaceTilia

At Tilia, star chef Steven Brown's Linden Hills restaurant, familiar favorites are energized anew, brilliantly, at remarkably accessible prices. Ordinary chicken wings will never be the same after a single taste of the roasted chicken thighs, the dark meat bursting with rich flavor and enriched with a sort-of jerk seasoning, minus the smoke. The fish taco model is crossed with the McDonald's Filet-O-Fish sandwich, and the looky, tasty results are spectacular. The turkey burger is tops in its field, and the Reuben sports a corned beef that can only be described as dreamy. Brown inserts his life's experiences -- travel, friendships, his rural South Dakota upbringing, punk rock -- into his menu: Snappy grilled shrimp was born from an impromptu dinner he whipped up for his wife. Gravlax is an homage to former Nick & Eddie chef Steve Vranian, a supple and beautifully presented version with the flavors of dill and juniper hovering in and out of each bite. Brown also proves that hot dogs are an amazing flavor vehicle, cranking up the Chicago-style embellishments with sharply pickled cauliflower, strips of crisp bacon, a sharp stone-ground mustard and sprightly sprigs of dill. Smart snack ideas abound, whether it's grilled bread spread with house-made mozzarella, or luscious chicken liver pâté topped with a sweet-pungent swipe of pureed eggplant seasoned with fenugreek and honey. Brown also knows how to tackle weekend brunch, deftly turning out one winning, imaginative dish after another. The front of the pack, dessert-wise, is a date-caramel cake, an exercise in butter, love and chutzpah, with a sublime butterscotch pot de creme running a close second. A caution: Be prepared. In this reservations-free zone, you'll probably be waiting for a table.

Photo by Tom WallaceWise Acre Eatery

The farm-to-table movement is vividly encapsulated at the Wise Acre. The restaurant's story is in many ways all about real estate. Co-owners Scott Endres and Dean Engelmann, proprietors of Tangletown Gardens nursery, sensed an opportunity when their neighbor, Liberty Frozen Custard, came up for sale. They snapped up the property, a sharply restored "Mad Men"-era Standard Oil station, and began plotting their entry into the restaurant business. The Engelmann family farm in Plato, Minn., is the restaurant's not-so-secret weapon, supplying chickens, hogs, beef cattle and all manner of vegetables and fruits. Simple goodness follows. Take the carefully brined, barely smoked, teasingly fatty pork belly that chef Beth Fisher modestly calls bacon. She inserts it into a flurry of dishes, most notably a salad of harvested-that-morning lettuces, a selection of vegetables and herbs so seasonally of the moment that a person could set a clock by them, a toss of chicken and dainty quinoa; the results elevate the phrase "farm fresh" straight up to the penthouse. Fisher, who spent nearly a decade cooking at Lucia's Restaurant, places her menu smack dab in the middle of farmhouse supper territory, a supreme compliment. That means spectacular fried chicken, a blissfully unembellished, fork-tender pork steak, slow-braised pork shoulder paired with toothy white beans, a crowd-pleasing egg salad sandwich. Cuts of beef also journeyed across the animal, from a braised roast to grilled ribeye, all admirably good. Dessert? Frozen custard, naturally. Correction: Make that soul-stirring frozen custard.

Apple turnovers from Sun Street Breads. Photo by Rick NelsonSun Street Breads

The breakfast of the moment is, without a doubt, the deliriously addictive pork sausage biscuits and gravy at Sun Street Breads. Baker Solveig Tofte, after more than a decade at the helm at the Turtle Bread Co., rebooted a former video store into a bricks-and-mortar version of the popular stand she launched in 2009 at the Kingfield Farmers Market. "I mean, this is the bakery that Kingfield built," she said. Along with breads, fantastic sourdough pancakes, made-to-order lunch sandwiches (meatloaf and apple butter on toast, anyone?) and a handful of sweets -- including the Twin Cities' flakiest, tastiest fruit turnovers -- the stars of the show are definitely the tender, golden biscuits, dressed with eggs, cheese, thick-cut bacon, fried chicken or ham, or split and smothered in that peppery, house-made pork sausage gravy. There's a similarly hearty mushroom version. Tofte hasn't forgotten the market customers whho launched her business; she's still hawking breads, biscuits and goodies every Sunday morning through October.

Blackbird

What a pleasure it is to see Chris Stevens and Gail Mollner back on the job. Sit at the copper-topped counter at their new Blackbird and catch glimpses of Stevens as he cooks up a storm in the kitchen, or take a perch in one of the roomy booths and observe Mollner as she makes sure her great-looking dining room operates like clockwork. Preferably you have a big bowl of fiery udon noodles in front of you, or roasted chicken with fried chicken livers, or a carefully assembled banh mi, the traditional Vietnamese pork sandwich. Weekend breakfast is particularly pleasant, which explains the crowds. The couple lost their life's work in a devastating February 2010 fire, and after plenty of grit and determination, they've relocated their charmer of a restaurant to a new Kingfield address. It's a win-win scenario. Not only is Blackbird 2.0 a welcome jolt of privately financed economic stimulus for 38th and Nicollet intersection, but the larger, sunnier digs are an improvement over the old space, which always felt cramped. Now with nearly twice as many seats, the restaurant -- still charmingly quirky, by the way -- can accommodate the throngs who know to come for Stevens' sharp, affordable, crowd-pleasing cooking and Mollner's attentive hospitality. They're role models for overcoming adversity, and diners everywhere should be thrilled to have them, and their restaurant, back.

Sweet Italian pizza at Pizzeria Lola. Photo by Kyndell HarknessPizzeria Lola

Pizzeria Lola has transformed pizza lovers into early-bird diners, because pizza hounds are well advised to arrive at 56th and Xerxes as soon as the doors open at 5 p.m., or risk a long wait for a table. Yes, it's that popular. Because co-owner Ann Kim prepares all the dough herself, the results are remarkably consistent from day to day, a thin but sturdy crust that has a slight lift, with a crispy outer layer, a tender, air-pocketed interior and a gently sour flavor. It's a fine foundation for a detail-oriented array of toppings that are almost always paired in satisfying combinations. There are roughly a dozen pizzas on the menu, including a build-your-own option, but why not take advantage of Kim's endless recipe testing and go with the combos she prescribes? Top selections include the Sweet Italian, which features a house-made pork shoulder sausage, each hot bite popping with garlic and fennel, the overt spiciness tamed by subtly sweet peppers. It's followed closely by the Xerxes, in which a light touch of mozzarella and feta stands up to nicely bitter sauteed broccoli rabe, salty olives and crushed almonds. Leading the Simple Pleasures department is a first-rate Margherita. Kim does the cooked egg thing and does it well, with a barely jelled yolk adding a finishing touch to cured pork cheek and leeks shaved to resemble blades of grass. Dessert is a fantastic house-made soft-serve ice cream. Now if only we could be allowed to make a reservation? Please?

Scallops from In Season. Photo by David JolesIn Season

One trend worth embracing is the movement toward small restaurants. Diminutive in their scale and the size of the staff, anyway. Their culinary ambition is writ large. In Season, for instance. The seat count hovers around 40, and the staff consists of five servers, a cook, sous chef Pete Thillen and chef/owner Don Saunders. That's it. There isn't even a dishwasher on the payroll. The beauty of this kind of modest setup is that there's almost no filter between Saunders and his diners. Drop in most nights, and chances are that Saunders is working the line preparing dinner, being a literal hands-on owner. And for diners, that is a very good thing. The menu's seasonal aspect -- Saunders plans to completely overhaul it four times a year, injecting tweaks every few weeks -- has a whiff of being dated, or gimmicky. It would be more of a surprise if a chef of his caliber weren't fashioning his work on peak- season ingredients. That said, he's also tying cooking techniques to the calendar -- braises when the snow flies, grilling during the summer months -- but again, this is hardly a revolutionary business plan. Still, it's a slight twist on the omnipresent all-local-all-the-time drumbeat: Minnesota and Wisconsin farms are tapped when the connection makes sense, but when inspiration calls outside the region, In Season answers. If that's the hook that has lured Saunders back into a Twin Cities restaurant, then we should be all for it.

USER PICK: Kings Wine Bar

Kings offers a wine paradise in a small, hip south Minneapolis venue. They make their own tater tots (which are phenomenal), and also have the best burger in the Twin Cities. Seriously. At a wine bar. Buttery soft bun; insanely juicy locally raised grass-fed beef from Stone Bridge Farm; melty, creamy manchego cheese; thick-cut, salty bacon; red onion confit and smooth shallot aioli for a sweet/pungent oniony flavor. This burger is crazy good. DJ Jake Rudh spins music on the first Tuesday night of the month. --lkozarek

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Manny's Tortas. Photo by Tom Wallace

  • 5-8 CLUB: American. Along with Matt's, the 5-8 Club is one of the original claimants of the Jucy Lucy originator's crown. The stuffed burgers that typify south Minneapolis tavern food are big, unseasoned and made with lovely bakery buns at the 5-8, which also sports a much more extensive menu. --James Norton
  • ADRIAN'S TAVERN: American. A genuine neighborhood bar and grill offering a long menu of burgers, from basics to exotic, grilled chicken, fish and chips and a dozen deep-fried bar snacks. --James Norton
  • ANODYNE CAFE : American. A lively neighborhood coffeehouse that moves far beyond double mocha lattes, cooking up a surprisingly large and varied menu of quick, fresh, creative fare. Breakfast served all day.
  • BIRCHWOOD CAFE: Vegetarian. Inexpensive, mostly vegetarian fare, often made from local ingredients. Breakfast includes crispy waffles, quiche, addictive cinnamon-raisin rolls and oatmeal. Lunch and dinner range from salads and sandwiches to more elaborate entrees.
  • C&G'S SMOKING BBQ: The proverbial hole-in-the-wall BBQ joint. The ribs are smoked for three hours in an electric server and the sauce comes on the side, as preferred by purists. Try the Motor City Corned Beef, a powerfully flavored homemade corned beef sandwich stacked with thinly sliced meat. --James Norton
  • HAMDI: African. Traditional Somali cuisine, with very tasty food and welcoming service. Best bets include the grilled steak, roast goat or chicken leg dinner, all served in generous portions.
  • FAT LORENZO'S: Italian. A neighborhood pizzeria par excellence, boasting simple Italian-American food done with good ingredients and quite a bit of care. The pizza is solid Midwestern stuff, and the garlic chicken hoagie is a hot sandwich worth experiencing. Don't skip the house-made gelato. --James Norton
  • GANDHI MAHAL: Indian. Serving up richly sauced and spiced northern (Mughal) Indian cuisine, Gandhi Mahal has become a destination for those who like their Indian food rich and sophisticated. With a warm, neighborhood feel and a regular lunch buffet, it's far from intimidating for newbies, but the menu's got enough depth and surprises to please even a veteran or native appetite. --James Norton
  • LONGFELLOW GRILL: American. The Longfellow and its sisters, Highland Grill (St. Paul) and the Edina Grill (Edina), are updated versions of the neighborhood diner. There is a lot on the menu that you won't find at traditional diners, and breakfast is a strong suit.
  • MANNY'S TORTAS: Mexican. Quick-service Mexican fare in the Midtown Global Market, at bargain-basement prices. Try their humongous, affordable and addicting sandwiches.
  • MATT'S BAR: American. Home to the Jucy Lucy, the lovably worn-down Matt's is the quintessential south Minneapolis tavern eatery. Everybody likes the humble, charred, cheese-stuffed hamburgers that have put this place on the map (and on countless TV food shows.)
  • RIVERVIEW CAFE AND WINE BAR: American. Great by-the-glass wine offerings, good food and a cool-but-comfy ambience make this a great date destination.
  • SALTY TART: Bakery. Michelle Gayer's Midtown Global Market bakery is the place for first-rate baked goods and sandwiches. Gayer is a 2010 James Beard Foundation awards "Outstanding Pastry Chef" nominee.
  • SEWARD COMMUNITY CAFE: Breakfast/vegetarian. Some of the best breakfasts in town are found at this worker-managed community cafe. Be sure to try the huevos rancheros or the Super Red Green Earth breakfast.
  • TAQUERIA LA HACIENDA: Mexican. Those in the know say that this Lake Street taqueria is the best source of tacos al pastor -- spice-rubbed pork tacos that come served with cilantro, onions and a wedge of lime. Along with La Alborada and Los Ocampo, it's a mandatory stop on any E. Lake taco crawl. --James Norton
  • TAQUERIA LOS OCAMPO: Mexican. From the crispy masa-cake-based huarache to the tacos carne asada, Los Ocampo brings a great deal of humble, well-balanced flavor to the table. A great combination of authentic flavor and good service. --James Norton
  • TED COOK'S 19TH HOLE: This grungy, old-school BBQ takeout joint smokes its meat all day in preparation for the dinner rush. Pork ribs and jojos (fat-cut potato fries) are among the house specials, along with the homestyle and consistently good sweet potato pie. --James Norton

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Broders Pasta Bar. Photo by Tom Wallace

  • BLUE NILE: African. Try a combination plate to sample the assorted Ethiopian stews, served over flatbread. Vegetarian dishes available.
  • BRODERS PASTA BAR: Italian. It's all about pasta at this value-oriented south Minneapolis gem with an ever-changing seasonal menu.
  • BUSTERS ON 28TH: American. Known for its hamburgers, the tavern has one of the best beer selections in the state, replete with local, national and international beers worth savoring. Better still, they're available in flights, which makes for easy adventurous sampling. --James Norton
  • CAFE LEVAIN: American/French. Affordable neighborhood bistro. The seasonally sensitive menu changes daily.
  • CORNER TABLE: American. Creative use of moderately priced ingredients, value-conscious prices, sane portions and smart, unpretentious cooking yield clean, sincere and often intensely satisfying flavors. Menu changes monthly.
  • FIRST COURSE: American. Modest little cafe tries to offer something for nearly everyone -- from budget-priced pasta entrees to ambitious nightly specials.
  • JAKEENO PIZZA AND PASTA: A neighborhood fixture since 1975, Jakeeno's pizzas are true to Midwestern tradition: The crust is crusty, the cheese is gooey and the toppings are applied in ample proportion. There's also the old favorites, like spaghetti and meatballs.
  • PRIMA: Italian. Pastas are mostly classic preparations such as spaghetti with clams or penne alla puttanesca. Nearly all the pastas are under $10.
  • SCOTT JA-MAMA'S BARBECUE: Featuring Scott Woolsey's mama Dorie's famous sauce, plus barbecue steak and shredded pork sandwiches.
  • TRUE THAI: The show must go on for Anna Prasomphol Fieser's restaurant after the hit-and-run death of chef Anousone "Ped" Phanthavong. It claims to be the only place that makes its own Thai curries from scratch.
  • VICTOR'S 1959 CAFE: Cuban. The breakfast and lunch menus feature a mix of Cuban and American fare; the dinner menu is all-Cuban.

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House-smoked sturgeon from Piccolo. Photo by Tom Wallace

  • AL VENTO: Italian cafe/neighborhood bistro with simple but authentic Southern Italian fare, moderate prices and minimal decor.
  • CAVE VIN: French. With all the fuss over La Belle Vie and Meritage, Cave Vin has a tendency to get lost -- it's a shame, because this cozy little corner offers beautifully executed bistro classics (including tasty frogs' legs, tartare and steak frites) and a professional-grade wine list. --James Norton
  • THE CRAFTSMAN: American. Former chef Mike Phillips put this spot on the map with his attention to seasonal ingredients and his nationally known charcuterie plate. Although the charcuterie plate has fallen from "legendary" to merely "very delicious," there are still many thoughtful local, seasonal touches on the hearty, rapidly changing upscale American menu. --James Norton
  • PICCOLO: American. The name is Italian for "small," and it's just that: tiny. This is dining as high art, dinner served two bites at a time, as artfully arranged as it is prepared. The 11 savory items on the menu include these edible works of art, each a masterpiece of form and flavor. And yes, minuscule.
  • TRATTORIA TOSCA: Italian. An oft-changing menu of starters, pastas, entrees, side dishes and desserts, with a focus on seasonal availability.

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