The oyster bar at Meritage. Photo by Tom WallaceMeritage
Meritage doesn't bill itself as a seafood restaurant. But that's exactly what it is, plus a whole lot more. Chef Russell Klein skillfully finds parity between classic and contemporary, formal and casual. That culinary balancing act is best viewed through the prism of lobster -- specifically, Klein's approach to it -- because anyone who loves lobster will adore Meritage. Purists can enjoy it steamed and chilled. Classicists will fall all over how Klein adds just enough gelatin to a decadent lobster consomme, fills it with generous chunks of tender poached lobster, then tops it with a sweet corn puree, a flavor marriage that can only be described as celestial. Klein also makes a wicked-good workingman's lobster roll, an homage to his youth on New York's Long Island. This is not just a fish story. A couscous house in Marseilles formed the inspiration for a boldly seasoned lamb/chicken/lamb-sausage dish. Klein puts out a dream of a pork chop and a grilled-to-perfection steak, and anyone in a roast-chicken-and-mashed potatoes mood need look no further than the expert version put forth here. Yes, Meritage is as flexible as a Bikram yoga practitioner. A Wild fan in search of a phenomenal burger, equally addictive French fries and an ice-cold beer will feel right at home seated next to a table of special-occasion diners, and vice versa. Post-Ordway sweet-seekers can find refuge in the traditionally minded desserts, including a wonderfully tangy lemon tart, dainty profiteroles drizzled with an intense chocolate sauce and an airy chocolate mousse crowned with an indecently rich dollop of whipped cream.
Swede Hollow in the Dayton's Bluff neighborhood looks like a typical cafe: walls adorned with local art, tables jammed cozily into a small space, regulars coming in for their cup of coffee, and a morning menu featuring pastries and other tasty treats. It has a completely amazing patio that would be the perfect setting for a morning meal. After seriously considering the pastry options, I went with the veggie quiche of the day. The eggs were creamy and light, but not undercooked. There was just a slight hint of feta in the background. The veggies (cauliflower, tomatoes, mushrooms, spinach) were cooked to perfection, adding some texture and flavor to the magical eggs. And the crust was perfectly flaky. Overall, an epic quiche win. --chrissybell06
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Babani's. Photo by Tom Wallace
- AMSTERDAM BAR & HALL: The new music venue has a Netherlands theme: Dutch and Belgian beers, plus Euro grub like croquettes, frites, meat-and-cheese plates and little Dutch sandwiches called broodjes.
- BABANI'S KURDISH RESTAURANT: Middle Eastern. Eatery claims to be the country's first Kurdish restaurant.
- DeGIDIO'S: Italian. Old-school family restaurant that serves up one of the best renditions of that controversially named sandwich, the hot dago. DeGidio's version is saucy and sloppy and best eaten with a fork and knife. --James Norton
- TANPOPO NOODLE SHOP: Japanese. Simple meals of noodles and broth are perfect cold-weather fare, and the atmosphere is as civilized and relaxing as it gets. Sushi specials and killer soy-ginger chicken wings add a more accessible touch. --James Norton
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BBQ spare ribs at Señor Wong. Photo by Carlos Gonzalez
- COSSETTA ITALIAN MARKET & PIZZERIA: Italian. A rock-ribbed stalwart of the St. Paul Italian eating scene, Cossetta does comforting pasta, pizza and a less controversially named version of the Hot Dago sandwich that the city has become (in)famous for.
- DOWNTOWNER WOODFIRE GRILL: American. Wood-fire grilled steaks and seafood, Persian fire-roasted kabobs, gourmet pizzas, extensive wine list and a full bar.
- FACES MEARS PARK: American. At David Fhima's remade LoTo, the main menu's format covers a lot of bases: sandwiches, salads, pastas, pizzas and a handful of familiar beef-chicken-fish entrees.
- GLOCKENSPIEL: German. Traditional food and drink in a restaurant decorated with German-themed frescos. Menu may include roasted pork shank with sauerkraut and potato dumpling; rainbow trout; and schnitzel with French fries and vegetables.
- RED'S SAVOY PIZZA: Pizza. Short on ambience but long on legions of satisfied pizza fans, this bustling St. Paul landmark serves thin, crispy crust pizzas with the standard toppings, along with a selection of pasta dishes and American favorites.
- RUAM MIT THAI: While it's not much to look at, this humble St. Paul Thai eatery boasts the depth and flavor typical of true Thai delicacies -- all the gastronomic fireworks with none of the fancy visuals. --James Norton
- SAKURA: Japanese. Sushi and a full Japanese menu.
- SEÑOR WONG: Asian/Mexican. This is a kitchen that can juggle both tricked-out nachos and spring rolls overstuffed with snappy shrimp, thin slices of roasted pork and tons of fresh herbs. There are fat and feisty wok-fried pork dumplings as well as what might be the best sweet potato fries in town.
- THE STRIP CLUB MEAT & FISH: American. A vibrant menu that skillfully merges an appreciation for locally raised ingredients with affection for uncomplicated gastropub fare. The restaurant's namesake dish is a near-perfect New York strip from Minnesota's superb Thousand Hills Cattle Co.
- TRATTORIA DA VINCI: Italian. Italian restaurant featuring live jazz. Menu may include gnocchi with Bolognese sauce, risotto and veal saltimbocca.
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- FOREPAUGH'S: American. Upscale dining in a Victorian mansion. Seafood entrees show flair and nuance.
- MERITAGE: French. Chef/co-owner Russell Klein embraces his Gallic restaurant roots without being locked into them. And as a seafood restaurant, Meritage may be the best of its kind in the Midwest.
- PAZZALUNA: Italian. Upscale restaurant serving stylish presentations of classic Italian dishes.
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Heartland. Photo by Tom Wallace
- ST. PAUL GRILL: American. Classic hotel restaurant popular with businesspeople. Steaks, chops and fresh seafood are offered. Sunday brunch is popular.
- HEARTLAND RESTAURANT & FARM DIRECT MARKET: American. Located opposite the St. Paul Farmers Market, this temple to locally raised foods offers a serene dining room, a more casual lounge and an open-all-day market and grab-and-go counter.
- KINCAID'S FISH, CHOP & STEAK HOUSE: Seafood/steakhouse. Modern version of a classic steak and chop house.
