Restaurant Guide '10: South Minneapolis

For creative neighborhood bistros and more, head down to the Southside.

August 17, 2012 at 8:56PM

Cafe Maude. Photo by Tom WallaceCafe Maude

  • American
    • $$

      Nothing seems to have changed at Cafe Maude, yet everything feels -- and tastes -- a little different. Previous chef Aaron Slavicek fed hordes of happy people on a patented mix-and-match blend of bar snacks, small plates, side dishes and entrees. New chef Burke Forster has wisely inserted his own aesthetic into that winning format rather than bust the menu wide open and start over. On the small-plates side, he glazes meaty spare ribs with hoisin and ginger, and puts a flavorful char on lamb skewers, finishing them with a mint- and garlic-tickled yogurt. There are hot chile and bright lemongrass accents in a velvety tuna compote, and rice croquettes are perfectly crisp outside, perfectly creamy inside. The flatbreads boast imaginative topping combinations (don't miss the ham-pear-asparagus), and larger plates swing from gigantic seared scallops dressed with bacon and curly Brussels sprouts leaves to a daily vegetable risotto to a sizzling ribeye gleaming with a rich mushroom glacé. It's obvious that Burke pays close attention to minor details, and basics like burgers and roast chicken are handled with flair and care. Oh, did we mention the three-course Sunday and Monday night dinner, a steal at $25? Yeah, Miss Maude is in very good hands. --Rick Nelson

      La Chaya Bistro

      • Mexican/Italian
        • $$

          Chef/co-owner Juan Juarez Garcia reflects both his Mexican heritage (baked halibut in banana leaves; ribeye with garlic and cilantro topped with a green caper salsa) and his Italian training (squid-ink fettuccine tossed with shrimp and cherry tomatoes; ricotta- and spinach-stuffed cannelloni). The two daily soups, whether a spirited gazpacho or a a creamy avocado/crab version,were outstanding. Appetizers were uneven. Entrees, pricey for a neighborhood place, included a terrific ribeye steak, so-so grilled shrimp and juicy grilled chicken with mashed potatoes and asparagus. My favorite meal was brunch, where I delighted in eggs Benedict-style with salsa verde and shrimp tacos on house-made tortillas. --Rick Nelson

          Ham and brie encroute from Grand Cafe. Photo by Tom WallaceGrand Cafe

          • American
            • $$

              A change in chefs hasn't changed this charming neighborhood cafe's commitment to seasonal, local fare. Under chef Ben Pichler, the affordable, tightly focused menu remains seasonally sharp and skillfully rendered. The dinner menu's canapés remain, a plate of constantly changing small bites that could be roasted beets spooned into endive or gravlax on tiny toasts. Flatbread makers everywhere could learn from Pichler, who feeds egg-enriched pizza dough through a pasta roller until it's paper-thin, fries it until crisp and then lavishly tops it with farm-fresh ingredients before finishing it in the oven. Pichler's best dishes take full advantage of his yearlong stint behind the counter at Clancey's Meats & Fish. Rabbit hindquarters were braised in chicken stock and white wine until fall-apart tender. A cold-smoked pork chop, rubbed with coriander and herbs, was so juicy it melted in the mouth. Other pluses: At weekend breakfast, it's all about the biscuits smothered in orange-smoked paprika-pork sausage and bourbon gravy. The wine and beer lists are affordable and interesting. The setting, with its mismatched furniture and eclectic art, is a tad shopworn but charms nonetheless, particularly at night. --Rick Nelson

              Panna cotta from Arezzo. Photo by Stormi GreenerArezzo Ristorante

              • Italian
                • $$

                  Unbelievable house-made pasta, flatbreads, pizza and desserts in an unpresumptuous setting; one of the Twin Cities' best-kept secrets. This is a great place for a more intimate dinner over candlelight. Portions are generous, prices are reasonable, and the food is worth coming back for. The staff is down-to-earth and will guide you through a crazy good meal. If you're looking for Italian food made from scratch and not from the can, then this place is definitely worth checking out. Visit in the summer for a chill dinner outside. --gatogato

                  Cafe Ena

                  • Latin/Fusion
                    • $$

                      I really like this place -- one of the best Latin places in the Cities. Flavors are bold and fresh, though maybe a little heavy on the garlic . You know when you go to a place and can't decide what to order because there are too many to try? That fits this place to a T. I ended up with a risotto scallop dish, which I really liked. Even if you don't like what you get, you get to hang out in a cool space in a cool neighborhood. --pbrmeasap

                      Marla's Caribbean Cuisine

                      Marla's jerk chicken will teach you something. Jerk chicken is not something you order on a bun at Applebees. It is not a zippy little sauce you order on your suburban chicken wings. Do not taunt jerk chicken this way; in its authentic form it is complicated, deep in flavor, aromatic and yes, sinus-clearing. This is at least in part attributable to the habanero pepper-based hot sauce slathered on entrees according to customer preferences. The curry chicken also packed a punch. And while heat is the main flavor profile of these dishes, the chicken itself was tender, melt-in-your mouth good, and just plain well cooked. This warm-weather cuisine could perhaps still be a delicious anecdote for your Minnesota winter blues. --grims14

                      $

                      Pumpkin pancakes from Longfellow Grill. Photo by Chandra Akkari

                      • Adrian's Tavern: American. A genuine neighborhood bar and grill offering a long menu of burgers, from basics to exotic, grilled chicken, fish and chips and a dozen deep-fried bar snacks.
                        • Anodyne Cafe : American. A lively neighborhood coffeehouse that moves far beyond double mocha lattes, cooking up a surprisingly large and varied menu of quick, fresh, creative fare. Breakfast served all day.
                          • Birchwood Cafe: Vegetarian. Inexpensive, mostly vegetarian fare, often made from local ingredients. Breakfast includes crispy waffles, quiche, addictive cinnamon-raisin rolls and oatmeal. Lunch and dinner ranges from salads and sandwiches to more elaborate entrees. Homey, satisfying desserts.
                            • Colossal Cafe: Breakfast. American scratch cooking with a European twist.
                              • Hamdi: African. Traditional Somali cuisine, with very tasty food and welcoming service. Best bets include the grilled steak, roast goat, or chicken leg dinner, all served in generous portions.
                                • Longfellow Grill: American. The Longfellow Grill and its sisters, Highland Grill (St. Paul) and the Edina Grill (Edina) are updated versions of the neighborhood diner. There is a lot on the menu that you won't find at traditional diners, and breakfast is a strong suit.
                                  • Manny's Tortas: Mexican. Quick-service Mexican fare in the Midtown Global Market, at bargain-basement prices. Try their humongous, affordable and addicting sandwiches; made by layering each of their 10 carefully prepared, two-fisted monsters with complementary flavors and textures.
                                    • Matt's Bar: American. If you want to live dangerously, try the delicious original Jucy Lucy at Matt's. Bite into the juicy half-pound burger, releasing the pool of molten American cheese at its center.
                                      • Riverview Cafe & Wine Bar: American. Great by-the-glass wine offerings, good food and a cool-but-comfy ambiance make this a great date destination.
                                        • Rustica: Bakery. Extraordinary breads, delicate pastries and intensely flavored tortes and cookies overflow with taste and texture.
                                          • Salty Tart: Bakery. Michelle Gayer's Midtown Global Market bakery is the place for first-rate baked goods and sandwiches. Gayer is a 2010 James Beard Foundation awards "Outstanding Pastry Chef" nominee.
                                            • Taqueria La Hacienda: Mexican. Fiends for tacos al pastor (a pork taco with gently spiced, slow-cooked flavor and tender texture) know that the best in the state are sold at Taqueria La Hacienda, at two locations on E. Lake Street. Authentic Mexican street food can be found all over East Lake, but Taqueria La Hacienda stands out among the crowd. --James Norton
                                              • Taqueria Los Ocampo: Mexican. From the crispy masa-cake-based huarache to the tacos carne asada, Los Ocampo brings a great deal of humble, well-balanced flavor to the table. A great combination of authentic flavor and good service. --James Norton
                                                • Seward Community Cafe: Breakfast/vegetarian. Some of the breakfasts in town are found at this worker-managed community cafe. Be sure to try the huevos rancheros or the super red green earth breakfast.

                                                  $$

                                                  Broders Pasta Bar. Photo by Tom Wallace

                                                  • Bagu: Sushi. Creative sushi in cozy surroundings.
                                                    • Blue Nile: African. Try a combination plate to sample the assorted Ethiopian stews, served over flatbread. Vegetarian dishes available.
                                                      • Broders' Pasta Bar: Italian. It's all about pasta at this value-oriented south Minneapolis gem with an ever-changing seasonal menu.
                                                        • Busters on 28th: American. $$ Sometimes people come to Buster's to eat (its burgers have won plaudits in the fiercely competitive south Minneapolis marketplace), but mostly they come to drink. The place boasts about 30 tap beers and flights ($10 domestic, $12 import) that let drinkers sample generous tastes of five different brews. --James Norton
                                                          • Cafe Levain: American/French. Affordable neighborhood bistro. The seasonally sensitive menu changes daily.
                                                            • Corner Table: American. Creative use of moderately priced ingredients, value-conscious prices, sane portions and smart, unpretentious cooking yield clean, sincere and often intensely satisfying flavors. The menu changes monthly.
                                                              • First Course: American. Modest little cafe tries to offer something for nearly everyone -- from budget-priced pasta entrees to ambitious nightly specials.
                                                                • Gandhi Mahal: Indian. Featuring rich, spice-infused sauces typical of northern (or "Mughal") Indian cuisine, Gandhi Mahal is a nice change of pace from the more locally typical (and austere) southern Indian joints in the area. The relatively new place is already an E. Lake Street staple, combining warm service with comforting food. --James Norton
                                                                  • Jakeeno Pizza and Pasta: Pizza. A neighborhood fixture since 1975, Jakeeno's pizzas are true to Midwestern tradition: The crust is crusty, the cheese is gooey and the toppings applied in ample proportion. There's also the old favorites, like spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and baked rigatoni.
                                                                    • Kings Wine Bar: American. Comfort food goes out for a night on the town at this new-ish Kingfield neighborhood haunt that sells everything from upscale tater tots with Gruyere and bacon sauce to an epic pot roast with seasonal vegetables. Local taps and an extensive wine menu make this a fine place to take a happy hour or just while away a cold winter evening. --James Norton
                                                                      • La Perla del Pacifico: Mexican. Mexican restaurant that specializes in seafood; they also offer an assortment of burritos, tacos, tortas, enchiladas and fajitas, as well as American and Mexican breakfast specialties. Full bar.
                                                                        • Prima: Italian. Pastas are mostly classic preparations such as spaghetti with clams or penne alla puttanesca. Nearly all the pastas are under $10.
                                                                          • Scott Ja-Mama's Barbecue: Barbecue. Featuring Scott Woolsey's mama Dorie's famous sauce, plus barbecue steak and shredded pork sandwiches.
                                                                            • Town Talk Diner: American. One side is a bar that pours clever, campy, seductive cocktails. Another side is a laid-back neighborhood drop-in that specializes in contemporary short-order fare.
                                                                              • True Thai: Thai. Unlike many local Thai restaurants, True Thai actually has a Thai owner, Anna Prasomphol Fieser, and a Thai chef. It claims to be the only place that makes its own Thai curries from scratch.
                                                                                • Victor's 1959 Cafe: Cuban. The breakfast and lunch menus feature a mix of Cuban and American fare; the dinner menu is all-Cuban.

                                                                                  $$$

                                                                                  The octopus with chard from Piccolo. Photo by Tom Wallace

                                                                                  • Al Vento: Italian. Italian cafe/neighborhood bistro with simple but authentic Southern Italian fare, moderate prices and minimal decor.
                                                                                    • Cave Vin: French. With all the fuss over La Belle Vie and Meritage, Cave Vin has a tendency to get lost -- it's a shame, because this cozy little corner offers beautifully executed bistro classics (including tasty frogs' legs, tartare and steak frites) and a professional-grade wine list. --James Norton
                                                                                      • The Craftsman: American. When chef Mike Phillips departed earlier this autumn, fans of the E. Lake eatery asked whether it could maintain its composure and momentum -- Phillips helped put the spot on the map with his attention to seasonal ingredients and his nationally known charcuterie plate. Those concerned can relax. Although the charcuterie plate has fallen from "legendary" to merely "very delicious," there are still many thoughtful local, seasonal touches on the hearty, rapidly changing upscale American menu. The cocktails are killer and lovers of the old "soup and sandwich" one-two punch would be well advised to check the thoughtful twists on both. --James Norton
                                                                                        • Piccolo: American. The name is Italian for "small," and it's is just that: tiny. This is dining as high art, dinner served two bites at a time, as artfully arranged as it is prepared. The 11 savory items on the menu include these edible works of art, each a masterpiece of form and flavor. And yes, miniscule.
                                                                                          • Trattoria Tosca: Italian. An oft-changing menu of starters, pastas, entrees, side dishes and desserts, and a focus on seasonal availability. The gnocchi defines comfort food, the pan-seared striped bass is glorious, the pate is silky and supple.

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