Restaurant Guide '10: Downtown St. Paul

The Twin Cities' smaller skyline holds its own with eclectic and unpretentious fare.

August 17, 2012 at 8:56PM

Faces Mears Park. Photo by Tom WallaceFaces Mears Park

  • American
    • $$

      David Fhima is the face back in the spotlight at Faces Mears Park. He's remade his LoTo, the five-year-old bar-cafe-deli that, well, faces scenic Mears Park. Fhima's menu feels designed to grab the attention of a wide swath of diners in Lowertown. Residents will appreciate the convenient grab-and-go cheeses, meats, olives and house-baked breads and desserts, as well as the small wine shop. The main menu's format isn't breaking any new ground, but it covers a lot of aim-to-please bases: sandwiches, salads, a few house-made whole-wheat pastas, a half-dozen pizzas, a handful of familiar beef-chicken-fish entrees, plus starters small (olives with baguette) and large (prawns baked in puff pastry). Desserts include a selection of house-made ice creams and sorbets. --Rick Nelson

      The Strip Club. Photo by Tom WallaceThe Strip Club Meat & Fish

      • American
        • $$

          Chef J.D. Fratzke, with co-owners Tim Niver and Aaron Johnson, have forged a vibrant menu that skillfully merges an appreciation for locally raised ingredients with affection for uncomplicated gastropub fare. The restaurant's namesake dish is a near-perfect New York strip: grass-fed, super-lean cut, from Minnesota's own superb Thousand Hills Cattle Co. Also great: cornmeal-fried catfish, walleye fritters, duck confit, fries and a category-killing burger. --Rick Nelson

          El Burrito Mercado

          • Mexican
            • $

              Any place that has tacos de lengua (tongue tacos) knows what they're doing in my book. This little cafeteria has a bunch of platters with everyone's favorites: tostadas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas, etc. You can choose from a number of different styles of authentically cooked meat fillings or guisadas. These are delicious -- but make sure you ask so you know what you are getting. Although English is a second language for most of the staff, they are happy to make sure you know about the food. While there, take a look at the butcher counter in the supermarket -- best-looking skirt steak anywhere. --katoRIP

              Ruam Mit Thai Cafe

              • Thai
                • $

                  I think a lot of Thai food in the area has a reputation for being overly sweet. Ruam Mit is probably one of the offenders, but I happen to like sweeter Thai curries, so I've been happy with my choices here. They will also kick up the heat on their dishes so if you are normally a "hot" person, you might try "medium." I also recommend the Bung Bo dish -- sort of like Vietnamese Bun, but with a Thai twist. Think lots of lemongrass. Good prices definitely make Ruam Mit a spot worth checking out. --pbrmeasap

                  Burger Moe's

                  • American
                    • $

                      This isn't high-concept dining, unless the concept is the love of beer. Forty on tap, including all the best locals. A pal and I had a great time discovering which Minnesota city's brews could get us the drunkest. Congratulations, New Ulm. All that beer can make a man hungry. The Axtell burger is frickin' perfect. The bean and bacon soup is just right, with a little crunch and a little cheese; the onion rings are a nice mix of sweet and salt. The "world famous wings" were OK, if a bit ambitiously named. The nachos were downright gross. The tater tots with Tuscan seasoning will keep me coming back. I literally could not stop putting them into my mouth. This place is definitely worth checking out, even if it is just for the beer. Bonus if you are served by Chops, the bartender with the most fantastically unlikely facial hair in all of St. Paul. --jzeise

                      $

                      Babani's. Photo by Tom Wallace

                      • Babani's Kurdish Restaurant: Middle Eastern. Cozy, family owned eatery claims to be the country's first Kurdish restaurant. Every meal here should start with the naska nan wa paneer, a plate that includes a few wedges of the kitchen's thick yeasty bread served with olives, cucumber and Roma tomato slices and feta cheese mixed with olive oil, oregano and garlic. It should also include the dowjic, a tangy chicken-and-rice soup zipped up with yogurt and lemon and pretty flecks of basil. And it most definitely must involve the salata tanyata, a salad that's half tabbouleh and half jaajic, a cool blend of yogurt and cucumbers flecked with dill.
                        • Tanpopo Noodle Shop: Japanese. Homestyle soba and udon noodle dishes.

                          $$

                          Cossetta. Photo by Tom Wallace

                          • Cossetta Italian Market & Pizzeria: Italian. A rock-ribbed stalwart of the St. Paul Italian eating scene, Cossetta does comforting pasta, pizza and a less controversially named version of the Hot Dago sandwich that the city has become (in)famous for. The restaurant is the recent recipient of $2 million in city loans, which it will use to renovate and expand in 2011.
                            • Downtowner Woodfire Grill: American/Pizza. Wood-fire grilled steaks and seafood, Persian fire-roasted kabobs, gourmet pizzas, extensive wine list and a full bar.
                              • Glockenspiel: German. Traditional food and drink are offered in a restaurant decorated with German-themed frescos. Menu may include roasted pork shank with sauerkraut and potato dumpling; rainbow trout; and schnitzel (breaded pork cutlet) with French fries and vegetables. Lunch menu features sausages and sandwiches.
                                • Red's Savoy Pizza: Pizza. Short on ambiance but long on legions of satisfied pizza fans, this bustling St. Paul landmark (the original location in a growing chain) serves thin, crispy crust pizzas with the standard toppings, along with a selection of pasta dishes and American favorites.
                                  • Sakura: Japanese. Sushi and a full Japanese menu.
                                    • Senor Wong: Asian/Mexican. The regionally brewed suds (Rush River, Surly, Flat Earth) are excellent, and many of the 20 or so starters stand out. This is a kitchen that can juggle both tricked-out nachos and spring rolls overstuffed with snappy shrimp, thin slices of roasted pork and tons of fresh herbs. There are fat and feisty wok-fried pork dumplings as well as what might be the best sweet potato fries in town.
                                      • Trattoria da Vinci: Italian. Italian restaurant featuring live jazz. Menu may include gnocchi with Bolognese sauce, risotto and veal saltimbocca.

                                        $$$

                                        Meritage. Photo by Steve Rice

                                        • Forepaugh's: American. Upscale contemporary dining in a Victorian mansion. Seafood entrees show flair and nuance.
                                          • Mancini's Char House: American/Steakhouse. This restaurant has always felt a little bit like early-'70s Las Vegas. The supper-club food is not targeted towards highbrows.
                                            • Meritage: French. Chef/co-owner Russell Klein embraces his Gallic restaurant roots without being locked into them. Brasserie standards (steaks frites, cassoulet) are delivered with aplomb.
                                              • Pazzaluna: Italian. Upscale restaurant serving stylish presentations of classic Italian dishes and new specialties.

                                                $$$$

                                                Applewood smoked pork loin from Kincaid's. Photo by David Brewster

                                                • St. Paul Grill: American. Classic downtown hotel restaurant that is popular with businesspeople and showgoers (the Ordway is visible from the dining room). Steaks, chops and fresh seafood are offered. Sunday brunch is popular.
                                                  • Heartland Restaurant & Farm Direct Market: American. Located opposite the St. Paul Farmers Market, this temple to locally raised foods offers a serene dining room, a more casual lounge and a open-all-day market and grab-and-go counter.
                                                    • Kincaid's Fish, Chop & Steak House: Seafood/Steakhouse. Modern version of a classic steak and chop house. Menu may include prime rib, rosemary-crusted lamb sirloin and daily fresh fish entrees.

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