Recipes: Spring peas

Serves 4 to 5 as first course; 2 to 3 as lunch main course.

Note: This soup takes its name from a suburb of Paris, where peas were once cultivated for market gardens. It tastes nothing like split pea soup — and everything like fresh peas, reduced to sweet, velvety voluptuousness. A nice starter for a spring dinner or the main event at lunch. From "French: Delicious Classic Cuisine Made Easy," by Carole Clements and Elizabeth Wolf-Cohen.

• 2 to 3 tbsp. butter, divided

• 2 or 3 shallots, finely minced (about 3 tbsp.)

• 2 c. water

• 3 c. peas, fresh or frozen

• Salt and pepper to taste

• Slivered green onions, fresh chives, tarragon or mint, for garnish

Directions

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a Dutch oven, or heavy saucepan over low to medium heat. Add shallots, and sauté until tender and fragrant.

Crank up the heat. Add 2 cups water and peas, along with a generous pinch of salt and a couple of grinds of pepper. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, or until peas are tender.

Use an immersion blender to process peas and their liquid until very smooth. (You can also do this in a standard blender, but be cautious: Proceed in batches, and beware that hot liquids can become explosive under pressure.)

Nutrition information per 1/5 appetizer serving:

Calories120Fat5 gSodium100 mg

Carbohydrates15 gSaturated fat3 gTotal sugars6 g

Protein5 gCholesterol10 mgDietary fiber5 g

Exchanges per serving: 1 starch, 1 fat.

Note: The most difficult part is hauling out the food processor — the spread whizzes together in minutes. If serving this on the patio, toast the bread on an outdoor grill, set the bruschetta spread on the table, and let guests help themselves. Adapted from Giada De Laurentiis, on the Food Network.

• 1 medium clove garlic

• 10 oz. (about 2 c.) peas, defrosted if frozen

• 1/2 c. grated Parmesan cheese, or more to taste

• 1/3 c. olive oil, plus more as needed

• 8 to 12 slices baguette or ciabatta bread, about 1/2 in. thick

• Sun-dried tomatoes to garnish

Directions

Fit your food processor with the chopping blade. Rough chop garlic, then pulse in peas and Parmesan. With the processor running, drizzle in 1/3 cup olive oil. Scrape down the sides of bowl, add salt and pepper to taste, then whir again to bring it all together. Transfer to a small bowl, then set aside.

Lightly brush both sides of bread with olive oil. Toast on a stovetop grill pan until golden, then flip and repeat with second side. (Alternatively, you can lay bread on a baking sheet and toast in a 400-degree oven for about 8 minutes, flipping halfway through.)

Nutrition information per 1/6 serving:

Calories250Fat17 gSodium300 mg

Carbohydrates17 gSaturated fat4 gTotal sugars3 g

Protein8 gCholesterol6 mgDietary fiber2 g

Exchanges per serving: 1 starch, ½ medium-fat protein, 3 fat.

Note: This is my take on a dish described by Frances Mayes in "Under the Tuscan Sun." She uses spaghetti. I like pappardelle, or a short, tubular noodle like penne. She calls for heavy cream; I lighten it up with half and half. Her recipe contains no garlic, but I think the dish screams for it. And while Mayes calls only for arugula, I like to up the vegetable quotient with a generous handful of peas. (Sometimes, I'll also toss in some chopped asparagus.) In other words, this formula is highly flexible; feel free to bend it to your will. When making pasta, I generally boil the noodles on a burner next to the sauce. When noodles are al dente, they get scooped out and stirred into the sauce. The starchy water that clings to the pasta is often enough to add body — if not, you've got a pot of pasta water conveniently standing by. The sauce comes together in less time than it takes to boil pasta. If it's difficult to find pancetta (Italian style bacon that's been salt-cured rather than smoked), you can substitute smoked bacon. It produces a dish that's different, but absolutely delicious.

• 8 oz. pappardelle (or other favorite pasta)

• Salt

• Olive oil

• 1 large garlic clove, minced

• 3/4 c. half and half

• 2 c. or more loosely packed arugula, roughly chopped

• 1/2 c. peas

• Salt and pepper to taste

• 1/2 c. grated Parmesan, plus more to pass at the table

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook pasta according to package directions, just to al dente. (It will continue to cook in the sauce.)

Meanwhile, slick a large heavy pan (a high-sided 10- to 12-inch chef's pan is ideal) with olive oil, and sauté garlic over low to medium heat until barely fragrant. Add pancetta and continue to sauté for a few minutes. Add half and half, bring to a simmer, then arugula and peas. Taste for salt and pepper. (Keep in mind that the cheese will add saltiness.) If your pasta is still cooking, lower the burner heat and keep the sauce warm until pasta is ready.

Add pasta to sauce along with the Parmesan, and raise heat slightly. Toss gently together until pasta is done to your liking and everything is heated through. If it seems dry, add a little pasta water. Serve at once, passing additional cheese at the table.

Nutrition information per 1/3 serving:

Calories880Fat54 gSodium800 mg

Protein26 gCholesterol70 mgDietary fiber5 g

Exchanges per serving: 1 vegetable, 4½ starch, 1½ high-fat protein, 8½ fat.