Recipes: Rich Chicken Stock, Vietnamese Chicken Stock, Asparagus, Pancetta and Rice Soup, Pho Ga

Rich Chicken Stock

Makes about 12 cups.

The following recipe may seem overly precise and entirely too spare. Taste it before you pass judgment. It has a rich, complex flavor that seems entirely incongruent with the relatively short list of ingredients. Though drawn from many, many sources, the following recipe was largely adapted from Judith Rodgers' "The Zuni Cafe Cookbook" (W.W. Norton, 2002).

• 5 lb. chicken (whole, bones, parts or any combination)

• 4 quarts (16 c.) cold water

• 1 medium yellow onion (12 oz.), coarsely chopped

• 1 medium carrot (about 4 oz.), peeled and cut into 2-in. chunks

• Peppercorns and/or herbs (optional and strongly discouraged the first time)

Rinse the chicken bones or parts under running water. If using whole chicken or chicken parts, remove and discard any excess fat and, if desired, skin.

Place the chicken in a tall, narrow, metal stock pot and add enough cold water to cover by about an inch. Place over high heat and bring to a gentle boil. Boil gently for about 3 minutes. Quite a lot of scum and fat should appear on the surface. Gently stir the chicken just once to allow any trapped scum to rise to the surface.

Place a colander in the sink. Dump the contents of the pot into the colander and allow the water and scum to go down the drain. This removes the protein and blood that form the scum and foam (but not the chicken flavor). Rinse the chicken and wipe the pot clean.

Return the chicken to the pot, add 16 cups cold water and the onion, carrot and salt. If adding peppercorns and/or herbs, you may add them now for a strong flavor. The chicken should be submerged. If it is not, try to rearrange the chicken before adding more water. If absolutely necessary, add a little extra water. Place over medium-high heat and bring to a simmer. Do not boil. Reduce the heat to medium or medium-low and simmer gently. A stray bubble, not a steady stream of bubbles, should occasionally appear on the surface. You will need to adjust the heat a few times to attain the optimal simmer.

Simmer the stock, without stirring, for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. (If using a whole chicken, you may wish to remove the chicken after it is cooked through, about 45 minutes. Set aside to cool slightly. Remove the skin and most of the meat; return the bones to the stock and continue to simmer. Reserve the chicken for another use.) For a mild flavor, wait to add the peppercorns and/or herbs at this time.

The level will drop slightly as the water evaporates. Do not add more water without first tasting a sip and deciding whether the stock is too concentrated.

Once you are satisfied with the flavor, remove the pot from the heat.

Place a fine strainer or a strainer lined with cheesecloth over a large shallow bowl or roasting pan. Transfer the chicken parts to a plate and reserve to shred the meat for another use or discard. Carefully strain the stock. Discard the solids.

If using immediately, use a spoon or paper towels to skim the fat from the surface of the stock.

To freeze, transfer to individual plastic bags or ice cube trays and freeze for up to 3 months. (To thaw frozen stock, place in the refrigerator overnight or dump the stock from the storage container into a pot over low heat. If it tastes too chicken-y, simply add water, a little at a time, when reheating.

Vietnamese Chicken Stock: An intensely flavorful stock that is the basis for a pho or any Asian-style soup.

Char a 4-inch piece fresh ginger, halved lengthwise and smashed; char 2 large peeled yellow onions. (To char the ingredients, carefully broil or hold them over a gas flame until browned in spots.)

In a dry skillet over medium heat, lightly toast 6 whole star anise and 6 whole cloves, shaking the skillet occasionally, for 2 minutes.

In the chicken stock recipe, to the chicken and water add the ginger, onions, 1 to 2 tablespoons fish sauce, 1 to 2 tablespoons sugar and about 1 tablespoon coarse salt, bring to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes. Add the star anise, cloves and 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns and continue to simmer gently for 1 hour. Strain and cool as directed. Taste and adjust the fish sauce, sugar and salt accordingly. (Adapted from "Pleasures of the Vietnamese Table" by Mai Pham).

Makes about 4 cups.

Even when a soup is crowded with ingredients, a decent stock makes all of the difference. Here, onions impart sweetness and pepper provides heat. A stock with a hearty chicken flavor is required as a unifying force. Adapted from Judith Rodgers' "The Zuni Cafe Cookbook" (W.W. Norton, 2002).

• 6 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided

• 2 c. diced yellow onions (8 oz.)

• Salt to taste

• About 3 1/2 c. Rich Chicken Stock (see recipe)

• 1/2 c. water

• About 8 oz. asparagus, ends trimmed

• 3 to 4 oz. pancetta or bacon, finely minced ( 1/2 to 2/3 c.)

• Freshly cracked black pepper to taste

Add the rice, stock and water and bring to a simmer. Cover tightly and cook until the rice is nutty-tender, about 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the rice you choose. The broth will be cloudy and should taste sweet from the onions. Turn off the heat.

While the rice is cooking, cut the asparagus in half crosswise, then sliver the halves, slicing them on an angle, about 1/8-inch thick. Don't worry if the slivers vary a little in thickness; the irregularity will guarantee uneven cooking and a varied texture. You should get about 2 cups.

In a large skillet over medium heat, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Add the pancetta and asparagus and stir once to coat, then spread them out and sizzle until the asparagus begins to turn golden brown. Toss or stir once, then allow to turn golden brown again. Repeat a few times until the mass has softened and shrunk somewhat.

Scrape the mixture into the soup and return to a simmer. Add lots of pepper and simmer for about 1 minute. Serve immediately.

Nutrition information per serving:

Carbohydrates19 g

Protein15 g

Fat36 g

including sat. fat9 g

Cholesterol28 mg

Dietary fiber3 g

Pho Ga (Vietnamese Rice Noodle Soup With Chicken)

Serves 4.

Starting with a stock that is already infused with warming spices eliminates the need for slowly simmering this soup. Only assembly is required. Adapted from "Pleasures of the Vietnamese Table" by Mai Pham (HarperCollins, 2001).

• 1/2 lb. dried rice noodles, cooked and drained

• 1/4 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced

• About 6 c. Vietnamese Chicken Stock variation on Rich Chicken Stock (see recipe)

• 3 green onions, thinly sliced

• Finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves

• About 1/2 lb. bean sprouts

• Thai bird chile peppers (may substitute serrano or jalapeño)

• 1 lime, cut into 6 wedges

• Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Divide the noodles evenly among individual bowls and scatter the shredded chicken and onion over the top. Ladle about 1 1/2 cups hot broth into each bowl. Top with green onions and cilantro. Pass the bean sprouts, basil, chile peppers, lime and pepper on the side.

Nutrition information per serving:

Carbohydrates16 g

Protein24 g

Fat5 g

including sat. fat2 g

Cholesterol76 mg