Recipes | Port braised duck legs with black pepper and dried cherries

PORT-BRAISED DUCK LEGS WITH BLACK PEPPER AND DRIED CHERRIES

Serves 4 to 6.

This recipe was made using a nonvintage $5.99 tawny Port (that reminded me of long-abandoned Halloween candy) and with a 20-year-old tawny Port with scents of walnut, leather and honey. The difference was barely discernible. Adapted from "All About Braising," by Molly Stevens.

• 6 large duck legs, including thighs

• 1 tbsp. coriander seeds, lightly toasted

• 1¹/₂tsp. black peppercorns

• 1 tsp. allspice berries

• 1 tbsp. chopped fresh thyme, or 1 tsp. dried

• 2 tsp. coarse salt

• 1 c. tawny Port

•¹/₂c. dried cherries (not sweetened)

• 2 large shallots, thinly sliced

• 2 bay leaves

• 2 c. chicken stock

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• Polenta or mashed potatoes, for serving

Directions

One day before cooking, prepare duck legs: Without cutting into skin, trim off excess fat (there may be quite a bit; reserve for roasting potatoes or vegetables). Place legs in a shallow bowl or sealable plastic bag. In a spice grinder or a mortar, combine coriander, peppercorns and allspice, and grind until coarse. Mix in thyme and coarse salt, and rub mixture all over duck legs. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

The next day, preheat oven to 325 degrees. In a small bowl pour port over cherries and set aside. Pat duck legs dry with paper towels; do not rub off spices. Heat a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add 3 duck legs, skin side down. Cook until skin is browned and crisp, 8 to 10 minutes; turn and brown other side, about 4 minutes more. If skin begins to burn, adjust heat; bits at bottom of pan should be dark brown, not black. Transfer duck legs to a heavy 4- to 5-quart pot with a tight-fitting lid. Pour off all fat from skillet.

Repeat with remaining duck legs, but leave 2 teaspoons of fat in empty skillet. Return skillet to medium heat, add shallots and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Add cherries and soaking liquid and simmer until reduced by half. Add bay leaves and stock and simmer until reduced by half. Pour over duck legs in pot. Cover tightly. Bake 1 hour, then turn and cook 1 hour more, or until tender.

If serving immediately, transfer duck legs to broiler pan and preheat broiler. Spoon off and discard as much fat as possible from braising liquid. Simmer liquid until thick and saucy, 8 to 10 minutes; add salt and pepper to taste. Broil duck legs until skin is crisp and sizzling, 8 to 10 minutes. Serve one whole leg on polenta or mashed potatoes, with sauce spooned over and around.

If holding for one or two days, refrigerate duck legs and braising liquid separately. Remove chilled fat from top of braising liquid and discard, then gently reheat duck legs in liquid. Transfer duck legs to broiler pan and preheat broiler. Finish dish as directed above.

Nutrition information per serving of 6:

Calories406Fat17 gSodium660 mg

Carbohydrates17 gSaturated fat5 gCalcium73 mg

Protein43 gCholesterol120 mgDietary fiber2 g

Diabetic exchanges per serving: 1 bread/starch, 6 lean meat.

RISOTTO AL BAROLO

Serves 6 to 8.

This recipe was prepared as a three-way blind tasting using a 2000 Barolo ($69.95), a 2005 dolcetto d'Alba ($22.95) and a Charles Shaw cabernet sauvignon, known to Trader Joe's shoppers as Two-Buck Chuck. Testers deemed the Barolo version "least flavorful," and actually preferred the Charles Shaw wine. Adapted from "Molto Italiano" by Mario Batali.

•¹/₄c. extra virgin olive oil

• 1 medium onion, finely diced

• 1¹/₂c. arborio rice

• 1 c. Barolo or other dry red wine

• 6 c. chicken stock, preferably homemade, or low-sodium if using canned

• 3 tbsp. cold, unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

•¹/₃c. freshly grated Parmesan cheese, more for serving

Directions

In a wide, deep skillet, heat oil until very hot but not smoking. Add onion and cook, stirring, until softened and translucent, 8 to 10 minutes. Do not brown; reduce heat as needed. Add rice and stir with a wooden spoon until opaque and slightly toasted.

Meanwhile, heat the stock in a saucepan and keep it just below a simmer. Add wine and a ladleful of hot stock to the rice and cook, stirring often, until liquid is absorbed. Continue stirring and adding hot stock a ladle at a time, always waiting until liquid is almost completely absorbed before adding more. Cook until rice is tender and creamy but not mushy, about 20 minutes. Toward the end of cooking time, rice will quickly soften, so stir constantly and taste often. Turn off heat and stir in butter. Stir in cheese and serve with additional Parmesan.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories296Fat14 gSodium132 mg

Carbohydrates34 gSaturated fat5 gCalcium80 mg

Protein8 gCholesterol15 mgDietary fiber1 g

Diabetic exchanges per serving: 1 vegetable, 2 bread/starch, 3 fat.

SAUTERNES CUSTARD

Makes 1¹/₂cups custard.

The writer first used a 2003 premier cru Sauternes from Chateau Suduiraut in this recipe, but the dish was just as fragrant using a $5.99 moscato from Paso Robeles, Calif. From "How to Eat," by Nigella Lawson.

• 2 c. heavy cream

• 1 vanilla bean or¹/₂tsp. pure vanilla extract

• 1 c. Sauternes or another dessert wine (not liqueur)

• 7 egg yolks

•¹/₃c. sugar

Directions

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Prepare a water bath by lining a roasting pan with paper towels; place a medium-size baking dish (about 5-cup capacity) in center.

Pour cream into a saucepan (with vanilla bean, if using) and heat just until simmering. Pour wine into another pan and heat to a boil.

In a medium-large bowl, whisk yolks and sugar together. Slowly whisk in hot wine, then hot cream. If using vanilla extract, whisk in now. Strain mixture into baking dish. Pour hot water into roasting pan until it comes just halfway up sides of dish. Cover tightly with foil and bake 1¹/₄hours, until set but still wobbly in center when jiggled.

Strain into serving pitcher, whisk until smooth, and serve immediately as a sauce for a fruit dessert. Or strain mixture into a saucepan and keep warm over very low heat until ready to serve. Custard can also be strained and chilled, then served cold or churned in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer's instructions.

Nutrition information per serving of ½ cup:

Calories275Fat22 gSodium29 mg

Carbohydrates14 gSaturated fat13 gCalcium63 mg

Protein4 gCholesterol246 mgDietary fiber0 g

Diabetic exchanges per serving: 1 other carb, ½ medium-fat meat, 4 fat.