Recipes: Little David's Jerk Sauce

LITTLE DAVID'S JERK SAUCE

Makes about 13/4 cups.

Note: Little David is the owner of a jerk pit in the village of Boston near Port Antonio, where jerk was born. A couple years ago, he graciously shared with me the ingredients he uses in his delectable jerk sauce, and I put the sauce together with my imagination-- a winner for sure.

• 2 c. chopped green onions (about 8), both white and green parts

• 2 or 3 hot chiles, or to taste, minced

• 3 to 4 garlic cloves, crushed

• 2 tbsp. grapeseed or corn oil

• 2 tbsp. chopped fresh thyme, or 11/2 tsp. dried thyme leaves, crumbled

• 2 to 3 tbsp. chopped fresh ginger, or 11/2 tbsp. ground ginger

• 2 or 3 tbsp. paprika

• 2 tbsp. ground cinnamon

• 1 tsp. ground nutmeg

• 1 to 2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

• 1/2 c. beer or 1/4 c. cider vinegar mix with 1/4 c. water, or more if needed

Directions

Put all of the above ingredients into a blender or food processor. Whirl on high speed or process until very smooth, adding a little more beer if needed to make a smooth juicy paste.

If not ready to use, spoon the sauce into a jar or plastic container and store in the refrigerator. The sauce will keep for several months.

Serves 4 to 5.

• 1 (3 to 31/2 lb.) whole chicken

• 1 tsp. salt

• 1 c. Little David's Jerk Sauce, or more if desired, divided (see recipe), divided

• Wood chips or chunks

• Oil for greasing grill or broiler pan

Directions

Split the chicken lengthwise down the middle into two pieces. Trim and discard excess fat and overlapping skin. Rinse the chicken with cold water and place in a colander to drain for about 30 minutes. Don't dry off the chicken; sprinkle it all over with the salt.

Place the chicken in a large glass bowl or casserole and pour about 1/2 cup Jerk Sauce over the chicken. Using your hands, rub the chicken all over with the marinade, including under the skin. (You may wish to do this wearing disposable plastic gloves.)

If desired, cover the container and marinate the chicken in the refrigerator for about 4 hours or overnight, rubbing briskly 2 or 3 times as it marinates to intensify flavor.

Build a cooking fire in the bottom of the kettle, starting off with 40 to 50 briquettes or 3 pounds or so of lump charcoal. Remove the chicken from the refrigerator and let warm up for about 30 minutes -- no longer -- while the charcoal is heating up.

The charcoal is ready for cooking when it turns grayish white, and you can hold your hand above the rack for 3 or 4 seconds. Then, spread out the charcoal a bit, but not all the way to the side of the kettle.

Spoon an additional 1/2 cup of the jerk marinade into a bowl and thin with the vinegar mixture, to use for swabbing, mixing well. Have available a brush and long-handled tongs.

Oil the grilling rack and place the chicken on the rack, skin side up, the two halves not touching. Set the rack of chicken in the kettle or on the grill of a free standing barbecue pit.

Cook the chicken uncovered for about 25 minutes, turning it over every 4 or 5 minutes and swabbing lightly with the marinade. Don't skimp on turning the chicken; if you do, the chicken will char and the skin will turn black. If the charcoal flares up, sprinkle or squirt with a little water.

Cover the kettle with the lid and cook the chicken, turning over and swabbing every 5 minutes or so, for 20 to 25 minutes longer, or until the chicken is fully cooked and its juice runs clear when cut at the bone with a knife. When done, transfer the chicken to a warm serving platter.

To prepare in the oven:

When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Generously oil a large heavy roasting pan or large cast iron skillet. You can cut the chicken into serving pieces, or split in half.

Season the chicken with salt and place in the pan and turn over in oil a time or two. Bake in batches if necessary. If the chicken is too crowded, it ends up being steamed.

Lightly brush the chicken all over with Little David's Jerk Sauce. Set the pan of chicken on the lower oven rack and bake for about 20 minutes, turning over two or three times.

The chicken is done when it is golden and tender and an instant thermometer reads 170 degrees when inserted in the thickest part of the chicken.

GRILLED JERK-STYLE SALMON

Serves 4.

Note: The jerk sauce imparts a lovely burnished flavor to fish, which should have the sauce brushed on right before being grilled, rather than marinated in the spicy sauce, which can "cook" seafood. In Jamaica, many chefs place the fish on a piece of oiled mesh that looks like a door screen and then fire up over a drum cooker. A cast iron grill pan or skillet also works well.

• 11/2 lb. slab of salmon

• 1/2 c. Little David's Jerk Sauce, divided (see recipe)

• 3 tbsp. olive or grapeseed oil, divided

• 8 to 10 thin lemon or lime slices, divided

• Wood chips or chunks

• Parsley or watercress

Sprinkle the salmon with salt and then brush or rub all over with about half of the jerk sauce. Brush a grill pan or skillet that is at least 9-by-13 inches lightly with about half of the oil. Arrange about half of the lemon or lime slices in the pan.

Place the fish in the pan, top with the remaining lemon or lime slices and drizzle over the remaining oil.

Build a cooking fire using about 40 charcoal briquettes or about 21/2 pounds hardwood lump charcoal.

Once the charcoal is ashy, spread out in a single layer but keep the briquettes touching so that the fire doesn't go out. Add a large handful of well-drained, water-soaked wood chips or a couple chunks of wood.

Set the pan of salmon on the cooking grill in the kettle. Cover the kettle, leaving the bottom and lid vents open.

Then cook the fish for 5 or so minutes longer or until done. To check for doneness, cut into the fish with a sharp knife. It is done when flesh is no longer translucent but opaque and juicy. Don't overcook; the fish will continue to cook once off heat.

Transfer fish to a warm serving platter and garnish with parsley or watercress.

Variation: To oven bake the salmon or trout, preheat the oven at 400 degrees. Lightly oil a heavy roasting pan or cast iron skillet. Arrange about half of the lemon or lime slices in the pan. Place the seasoned fish in the pan on top of the lemon or lime and brush with oil and then with the jerk sauce. Top with the remaining lemon or lime slices.

Bake the fish for about 10 minutes. Using a wide metal spatula, carefully turn over the fish and brush again with the jerk sauce. Bake the fish for 5 or so minutes longer or until it is no longer translucent but opaque and still juicy and done.

JERK GRILLED WHOLE FISH

• 2 whole fish (about 13/4 lb. each), such as porgy, mullet, red snapper, striped or sea bass, scaled and cleaned and gutted, heads on

• 1 tsp, salt

• 3/4 c. Little David's Jerk Sauce (see recipe)

• 3 or 4 tbsp. olive or peanut oil

• 8 to 10 thin lemon or lime slices

Directions

Split the fish lengthwise, butterfly-style like an open book, leaving center bone intact. Rinse and dry with paper towel. Sprinkle the salt all over, including the cavity.

Pour 3 to 4 tablespoons jerk rub or marinade on each fish and rub all over, including cavity. (You can do this wearing disposable gloves.) Close fish back up, place in glass or porcelain dish and refrigerate 30 to 40 minutes, no longer.

Generously oil a grill pan or roasting pan that is at least 9 by 13 inches. Remove the fish from the refrigerator and place in the pan, side by side. Drizzle the oil all over fish and allow to warm to room temperature for about 30 minutes.

Lightly oil a sheet of foil and place the lemon or lime slices on the foil. Brush the citrus slices lightly with a little jerk marinade and set aside.

Once the charcoal is ashy, spread out in single layer but keep briquettes touching so that fire doesn't go out. Top the charcoal with a large handful of well-drained, water-soaked wood chips or a couple chunks of wood.

Set the pan of fish and the sheet of lemon slices on the cooking grill in the kettle. Cover the kettle, leaving the kettle vents open.

Cook the fish for about 5 minutes. Using a large metal spatula and mitten, carefully turn over the fish. Place the lemon slices on top of the fish, and cook the fish for 8 to 10 minutes longer, or until done.

To check for doneness, cut into the fish with sharp knife. The fish is done when the flesh is no longer translucent but opaque and juicy. Don't overcook; the fish will continue to cook once off heat.

Transfer the fish to a warm serving platter and garnish with rosemary or other fresh herbs