Recipes: Hungarian comfort food

HUNGARIAN LAYERED CABBAGE (KOLOSVARI RAKOTT KÁPOSZTA)

Serves 8.

Note: Non-Jewish cooks would often use ground pork in this recipe instead of beef, and would garnish with thin slices of spicy Hungarian sausage called kolbasz. Hungary probably has more recipes for cabbage than any other country. The Hungarian names rarely indicate whether the intended ingredient is cabbage or the more popular sauerkraut, assuming that the true connoisseur would know which was intended -- a little like performance of Baroque music, where in the notation it's unclear where and whether to embellish. Family recipe from Janet Horvath.

For sauerkraut layer:

• 1 (28-oz.) can sauerkraut, or about 11/2 lb.

• 1/4 c. vegetable oil

• 1 large onion, chopped

• 1 red pepper, diced

• 1 tbsp. sweet paprika

• Salt and pepper to taste

• Caraway seeds, optional

• 1 c. tomato juice or V-8 juice

• 1/4 c. vegetable oil

• 1 large onion, chopped

• 4 ripe fresh tomatoes, chopped, or 1 pint grape tomatoes, halved

• 1 green pepper, chopped

• 1/2 red pepper, chopped

• 1 tbsp. sweet paprika

• Salt and pepper to taste

• 2 garlic cloves. minced

•11/2 lb. lean ground beef (see Note)

• 2 c. cooked rice

• Chives, parsley, or fresh dill for garnish, as well as paprika

Directions

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

To prepare sauerkraut layer: Squeeze out the juices of the sauerkraut. Rinse the sauerkraut for several minutes in cold water to reduce the sour and salty flavors; drain.

Heat 1/4 cup oil in a large Dutch oven. When hot, add 1 chopped onion and fry until golden brown and almost caramelized. Add 4 chopped tomatoes and 1 diced red pepper, and simmer 2 minutes. Remove pan from heat, and add 1 tablespoon paprika, salt, pepper and caraway; mix well.

To prepare meat layer: Meanwhile in another Dutch oven or deep pan, heat 1/4 cup oil. When hot, add 1 chopped onion and fry until golden brown and almost caramelized. Lower heat and add 4 chopped tomatoes and 1 chopped green pepper and 1/2 red and yellow chopped peppers; simmer 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and add the 1 tablespoon paprika, salt, pepper and garlic; mix well. Return the pan to the heat and add the ground meat. Mix well and mash to eliminate any lumps. Add a little water if the consistency is not moist. Cook 30 minutes. Adjust the seasoning to taste.

To assemble: Oil a 9- by 13-inch baking dish. Divide the sauerkraut into three equal portions. Remove any chunks of tomato or pepper skins. Using a slotted spoon so the excess liquid drains, spread one third of the sauerkraut across the bottom of the pan in a thin even layer.

Use half of the rice for the next layer, spreading it evenly over the sauerkraut. Divide the meat in two and use half of the meat spreading evenly over the rice. Repeat a layer of sauerkraut, rice, meat and top with the last third of the sauerkraut.

Spread the sour cream, if used, as the final layer. The dish should be relatively firm with not too much sauce. If necessary, add a small amount of water to prevent scorching. Bake in the oven for 30 to 40 minutes.

Remove from the oven and garnish with the fresh herbs and a sprinkling of paprika. Cut the dish into squares and serve very hot.

Calories390Fat23 gSodium845 mg

Carbohydrates28 gSaturated fat6 gCalcium73 mg

Protein19 gCholesterol53 mgDietary fiber6 g

Diabetic exchanges per serving: 2 vegetable, 1 bread/starch, 2 lean meat, 3 1/2 fat.

HORVATH GOULASH SOUP (GULYÁSLEVES)

Note: Hungarian purists admonish cooks: Never use flour and any spices other than caraway seeds, and never use wine nor brown sauce. Nonetheless there are many variations on the gulyas theme. Recipe is easily doubled. A family recipe from Janet Horvath.

• 2 tbsp. vegetable oil

• 2 medium onions, chopped

• 4 ripe tomatoes cut into chunks, or 1 pint grape tomatoes, halved.

• 2 bell peppers( I like to use one green pepper and half of a red pepper and half of a yellow pepper), cut into 11/2- in. pieces.

• Pinch of caraway seeds, optional

• Salt

• 2 tbsp. sweet paprika (or spicy, if preferred)

• 21/2 lb. beef chuck or round cut into 3/4-in. cubes

• 1 lb. potatoes, cut into 1-in. squares

• Black pepper to taste

• Dollop of sour cream, optional

Directions

Heat oil in a Dutch oven or deep wide pot. When hot, add onions and fry until the onions are brown and almost caramelized. Reduce heat and add the chopped tomatoes and peppers, and simmer for 2 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat.

Crush the garlic with the caraway seeds, if using, and a little salt. Stir in the paprika and the garlic mixture. Add the meat and enough warm water to cover the meat. (Cold water tends to make the meat tough.) If you would like the dish to be more soupy, add more water.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories360Fat19 gSodium78 mg

Carbohydrates19 gSaturated fat6 gCalcium60 mg

Protein29 gCholesterol91 mgDietary fiber4 g

Diabetic exchanges per serving: 1 vegetable, 1 bread/starch, 3 1/2 medium-fat meat, 1/2 fat.

Serves 4 to 6.

Note: The paprikas sauce serves as the basis for many Hungarian dishes. Chicken is the perennial favorite, but it's delicious with veal, or beef and potatoes, or lots more bell peppers, potatoes and a little sausage and it's a meal in itself called Lecso. Sour cream would not be used with the meat in a Jewish household. Recipe is easily doubled. A family recipe from Janet Horvath.

• 2 tbsp. vegetable oil

• 2 medium-sized onions, chopped

• 1 green bell pepper, cut into 1-in. chunks

• 1/2 yellow pepper, cut into 1-in. chunks

• 2 large ripe tomatoes, cut into pieces, or 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved

• 1 heaping tbsp. sweet paprika

• Salt and pepper to taste

• 2 garlic cloves, minced

• Dollop of sour cream, optional

Directions

Use a Dutch oven with a lid. Coat the bottom of the pan with the oil and heat. When hot, add the onion and brown until it's almost caramelized. Add the peppers and tomatoes and sauté 2 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the paprika, salt, pepper and garlic. Return the pan to the heat and add the chicken and enough water just to cover the meat. Place the lid on the pan and simmer for 1 hour, stirring occasionally and adding a bit more water if needed. Serve over rice or dumplings. Top with a dollop of sour cream, if desired.

Nutrition information per each of 6 servings:

Carbohydrates9 gSaturated fat3 gCalcium39 mg

Protein32 gCholesterol94 mgDietary fiber3 g

Diabetic exchanges per serving: 2 vegetable, 4 lean meat.