Recipes: Granita of fresh pear with candied pineapple

GRANITA OF FRESH PEAR WITH CANDIED PINEAPPLE

Serves 8.

Where sorbets are smooth and slick, granitas are rugged with shaggy ice crystals and good crunch. What takes this granita out of the ordinary are the nubs of candied pineapple and spikes of black pepper. Right now, present the granita in martini glasses sprinkled with the pistachio nuts. Sweetened sour cream is good, too. In summer, garnish it with sprigs of rosemary -- or better yet, with rosemary's mauve-toned little flowers.

• 1¹/₂lb. (4 to 5) firm-ripe Comice, Anjou or Bartlett pears, peeled and cored

• 3 to 5 tbsp. fresh lemon juice, or to taste

• Shredded rind of half a lemon

•¹/₂c. of 1/4-in. chunks of candied pineapple

•¹/₄c. sugar, or to taste

• 2 c. water

Garnish:

• 6 tbsp. crushed pistachio nuts; or

• Small rosemary sprigs or flowers of fresh rosemary

In a food processor, blend all the ingredients (using 3 tablespoons lemon juice and¹/₄cup sugar), except the garnishes. Run the machine a few seconds and taste the mix for tart-sweet contrast. It should be slightly exaggerated because cold will mute the flavors. Adjust the lemon juice and sugar accordingly. Continue processing until the pineapple chunks are reduced to small bits. You don't want a smooth purée. Pour the pear mixture into an 8- to 10-cup freezer container and freeze.

After 2 hours, stir the granita with a fork, breaking up the frozen outer rim and blending it into the slushy center. Repeat this again after about an hour, and again after another hour. You want the granita to be shaggy crystals (not at all soupy) that you can scoop up for serving.

To serve, scoop the granita with 2 tablespoons or a small ice-cream scoop into tall glasses. Top with spoonfuls of the crushed pistachios. If using rosemary flowers, sprinkle a¹/₂teaspoon over each portion. Serve immediately.

Working ahead: If working a day ahead, let the granita freeze solid. About 4 hours before serving, partially defrost, stir and then refreeze. Stir after 40 minutes and stir again after another 40 minutes. Stir a third time shortly before serving.

Nutrition information per serving:

Carbohydrates29 gFat3 gSaturated fat0 gCholesterol0 mgCalcium18 mg

Protein2 gDietary fiber3 g