EGG ROULADE
Serves 6 to 7.
Note: This calls for a 10- by 15-inch jellyroll pan (a baking sheet with edges). If you have a different size, just shape the batter on the pan accordingly. I've made two of these at a time, for a group of 12 diners, and I made the batter individually for each. With two roulades, it's a little extra last-minute pressure, but given the ease of the rest of meal, it's doable. The oven, however, will be full. Adapted from Sara Moulton.
• 5 tbsp. butter
• 6 tbsp. flour
• 11/4 c. milk
• 4 eggs, separated
• Freshly black pepper