Makes about 18 cookies.

Because they rely upon melted butter -- and a few odd preparation quirks to assure their goal of an uneven surface -- these cookies defy conventional cookie-baking wisdom, but they more than live up to their name. From Cooks Illustrated magazine.

• 2 1/8 c. flour

• 1/2 tsp. salt

• 1/2 tsp. baking soda

• 12 tbsp. (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly

• 1 c. brown sugar (light or dark, or a mixture of both)

• 1 egg

• 1 egg yolk

• 2 tsp. vanilla extract

• 1 to 2 c. chocolate chips or chunks (semisweet or bittersweet)

Directions

In a large bowl, whisk together flour, salt and baking soda, and reserve.

In a large bowl, using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat butter, brown sugar and granulated sugar until thoroughly blended. Mix in egg, egg yolk and vanilla. Add flour mixture, mixing until just combined. Stir in chocolate chips.

Form scant 1/4 cup dough into a ball. Holding ball using fingertips of both hands, pull ball into two equal halves. Rotate halves 90 degrees and, with jagged surfaces exposed, join halves together at their base, again forming a single cookie, being careful not to smooth the dough's uneven surface.

Place formed dough onto prepared baking sheets, about 9 balls per sheet (smaller cookies can be used, but fewer cookies can be baked at a time and baking time may need to be adjusted). Bake until cookies are light golden brown and outer edges start to harden yet centers are still soft and puffy, 15 to 18 minutes. Remove from oven and cool cookies on baking sheets.

Makes about 4 dozen cookies.

• 1/2 c. (1 stick) unsalted butter

• 1/2 c. shortening

• 1 c. brown sugar

• 1/2 c. granulated sugar

• 2 tsp. vanilla extract

• 1 tbsp. cider vinegar or white vinegar

• 1 egg

• 1 tsp. baking soda

• 2 c. flour

• 3 c. (18 oz.) semisweet chocolate chips

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line several baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone mats.

In a large bowl, using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat butter, shortening, brown sugar, granulated sugar, vanilla extract, salt and vinegar. Beat in egg until well combined. Reduce speed to low and add baking soda and flour, and mix until just combined. Stir in chocolate chips.

Drop dough by rounded tablespoonfuls 2 inches apart onto prepared baking sheets. Bake for 12 to 14 minutes, until golden brown. Remove cookies from oven, cool on baking sheets for 2 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

Makes about 2 dozen cookies.

Note: This meringue cookie varies from the traditional Beacon Hill recipe with the addition of chocolate morsels. To toast walnuts, spread in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake 5 to 10 minutes at 350 degrees (shaking pan once or twice during baking), until they begin to give off an aroma. From "A Baker's Field Guide to Chocolate Chip Cookies" by Dede Wilson (Harvard Common Press, $16.95).

• 2 egg whites

• 1/2 c. sugar

• 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract

• 1/3 c. miniature semisweet chocolate morsels

• 1/3 c. walnut halves, toasted and finely chopped

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line several baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone mats.

In top of a double boiler over gently simmering water, melt chopped chocolate, stirring until smooth. Remove from heat and cool slightly.

In a large, grease-free bowl, using an electric mixer fitted with a whisk attachment on medium-high speed, beat egg whites until small peaks form. Increase speed to high and gradually add sugar until stiff (but not dry) peaks form. Beat in vanilla, then fold in melted chocolate until combined. Fold in chocolate morsels and walnuts.

Drop dough by generous rounded teaspoons 2 inches apart onto prepared cookie sheets. Bake until cracked in appearance and dry on top, about 10 minutes; cookies should be able to be lifted off baking sheet, and insides should be very moist. Remove from oven, cool on baking sheets for 2 minutes, then transfer parchment paper (or silicone mat) and cookies to a wire rack to cool completely.

Makes about 2 dozen cookies.

• 1/2 c. (1 stick) unsalted butter

• 1 c. light brown sugar

• 3 tbsp. granulated sugar

• 1 egg

• 2 tsp. vanilla extract

• 1/2 tsp. salt

• 1/2 tsp. baking soda

• 1/2 tsp. baking powder

• 11/2 c. chocolate chips

• 11/2 tsp. instant espresso powder

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Line several baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone mats.

In a large bowl using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat butter, brown sugar and granulated sugar for about 30 seconds, until mixture is fluffy. Beat in egg and vanilla extract for 30 seconds longer, until well combined.

In a large bowl, sift together flour, salt, baking soda and baking powder. Reduce speed to low, add flour mixture to butter-sugar mixture and mix for about 15 seconds. Using a rubber spatula, stir in chocolate chips and espresso powder.

Using a 1-ounce scoop (or a 2-tablespoon measure), drop dough onto prepared baking sheet in dollops about 3 inches apart. Gently press down on dough with back of a spoon to spread dough into 2-inch circles.

Bake about 20 minutes or until cookies are nicely browned around edges (bake a little longer for crisper cookies). Remove from oven, cool on baking sheets for 2 minutes, then transfer cookies to a wire rack to cool completely.

"Ready to take a break from 'this old Toll House'? write the authors of "The Frango Cookbook" (Book Kitchen, $14.95), a new cookbook dedicated to all things Frango, the chocolate candy tradition made famous by Marshall Field's. "Instead of using the usual chips and walnuts, these chewy cookies are studded with chunks of Frango Mint Chocolates and pecans." To toast pecans, spread in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake for 5 to 10 minutes at 350 degrees (shaking pan once or twice during baking), until they begin to give off an aroma.

• 2 1/4 c. flour

• 1 tsp. baking soda

• 1/2 tsp. salt

• 1/2 c. (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

• 1 c. firmly packed light brown sugar

• 1/2 c. granulated sugar

• 2 eggs

• 5 Frango Mint Chocolates, very finely chopped

• 1 tsp. vanilla extract

• 3/4 c. coarsely chopped toasted pecans

Directions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line several baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone mats.

In a large bowl, sift together flour, baking soda and salt and reserve. In a large bowl using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat butter and shortening for 1 minute. Add brown sugar and granulated sugar and beat for 1 minute. Beat in eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition.

Add finely chopped Frango Mint chocolates and vanilla extract and mix well. Using a rubber spatula, stir in flour mixture until just blended. Stir in coarsely chopped Frango Mint chocolates and pecans.