During a trip last summer to Lake Superior's south shore, I walked into Noreen Ovadia's bakery in Washburn, Wis., and immediately hit the strawberry Mother Lode. It was a fantastic bread pudding, rich and creamy and bursting with berries that had been plucked from the farms that stretch out on the hills high above the neighboring town of Bayfield.
I've daydreamed about that strawberry-fest on more than one occasion. In the intervening 12 months since my visit, Ovadia has expanded her business. Now Cafe Coco - Artisan Bakery & Good Eats is serving breakfast and lunch daily. "So far, we've managed to sell the Chequamegon Bay Area on falafel-lake trout Ruebens as well as frittatas and 'Really Swell French Toast with Banana Caramel Sauce,'" she said. Wow. I'm so booking a return trip.
Naturally, Ovadia continues to turn out seasonal bread puddings. "We only make our fruit bread puddings after first berry harvest, which is much later up here than in Minneapolis," she said. "Right now we're working through rhubarb bread pudding and after strawberries (mid-June at the earliest) and raspberries comes the all time best seller: blueberry-almond-white chocolate."
From there, the busy kitchen segues into fall flavors, including caramel-apple swirl, pumpkin, egg nog and spiced pecans. "And then in mid-January, we break out our stash of locally grown, frozen fruit and go back to strawberry, rhubarb and blueberry, which makes all of our local customers happy," Ovadia said.
If you find yourself in tiny Washburn (it's the lake town in between Bayfield and Ashland) here's a tip: "Most regular Coco customers loiter around waiting for the bread pudding to come out of the oven about 1 p.m.," said Ovadia. Duly noted.
COCO STRAWBERRY BREAD PUDDING
Serves 8.
Note: This recipe must be prepared in advance. From Noreen Ovadia of Coco - Artisan Bakery & Good Eats in Washburn, Wis.