Recipe: Potato and Leek Soup

Serves 6.

Note: From "Simple French Food," by Richard Olney.

• 1 lb. potatoes, peeled, quartered lengthwise, sliced

• 1 lb. leeks, tough green parts removed, cleaned, finely sliced

• Salt

• 2 quarts boiling water

• 3 tbsp. unsalted butter

Add the potatoes and leeks to the salted, boiling water and cook, covered, at a light boil until the potatoes begin to cook apart — or until, when one is pressed against the side of the saucepan with a wooden spoon, it offers no resistance to crushing — about 30 to 40 minutes, depending on the potatoes. Add the butter at the moment of serving, after removal from the heat.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories130Fat6 gSodium23 mgSaturated fat4 g

Carbohydrates18 gCalcium36 mg

Protein2 gCholesterol15 mgDietary fiber2 g

Makes about 40.

Note: From "Simple French Food," by Richard Olney, who acknowledges that the stirring in this recipe can be tiring for your arms. "If, after the mixture begins to achieve a certain consistency, the handle of the wood spoon, standing vertically, is grasped in one's fist, forearm held horizontally in relation to the spoon handle, the movement coming from one's shoulder as one stirs firmly, rhythmically in a circle, the forearm will suffer less from fatigue."

• 1 c. water

• 1/3 c. butter

• 1/2 tbsp. sugar

• 1 tsp. (loosely filled) grated lemon rind

• 1 c. (instant-blending type) flour

• 4 eggs

• Olive oil (or other vegetable oil) for frying

Directions

Add the flour all at once, stirring, first carefully, then, as the mixture pulls itself together, vigorously. Return to the heat and continue to stir, roughly and rhythmically, for 3 or 4 minutes or until the mass clings persistently together, leaving the bottom and sides of the saucepan clean, and its surface assumes a sweaty, shiny aspect.

Remove from the heat and, forming each time a well in the center, add the eggs, one at a time, stirring each time until the mixture begins to unify and then beating vigorously.

A skillet or a large omelet pan, filled two-thirds full with oil, is deep enough for frying. If using a deep fryer, don't use the basket. A large, round, flat, wire skimming spoon is the most practical for removing the fritters from the fat; lacking that, use a slotted skimming spoon. The oil should sizzle when a bit of batter is dropped in, but it should not be too hot — the fritters need to cook long enough so that exterior coloration coincides with their interior drying out.