GERMAN WARM GREEN BEAN SALAD

Serves 6.

• 8 slices thick-cut bacon (10 oz.), sliced into 1/2 -in. thick pieces

• 3 garlic cloves, minced

• 1 bunch green onions

• 2 tsp. yellow mustard seeds

• 1 tsp. salt, plus more for salting water

• 1 tbsp. sugar

• 11/2 tbsp. apple cider vinegar

• 3 tbsp. olive oil

• 1 1/4 lb. green beans, washed and trimmed

• Lots of freshly ground black pepper

Directions

Cook the bacon until lightly crisp. Remove the bacon to a bowl and discard all but 3 tablespoons of fat remaining in the pan. Add the garlic and cook over medium heat until it sizzles, about 1 minute. Add the green onions and mustard seeds and toss to coat. Add the 1 teaspoon salt, sugar, vinegar and olive oil, and turn off heat.

Meanwhile, bring 3 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add salt until it tastes like seawater. Add the beans and return to a boil. Cook until just tender, about 3 minutes if they're slim. Drain, discarding the cooking water.

Pour the hot beans into a serving bowl and add the warm onion mixture and the bacon. Toss to coat, seasoning with lots of black pepper.

GREEN AND SHELL BEANS WITH TOASTED WALNUTS AND FETA

Serves 6.

• 4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• 1/2 c. walnut pieces

• 4 garlic cloves, minced

•1/2 tsp. salt plus more for salting water

• 1/2 lb. shell beans in their pods, shelled (about 1 c.)

• 3/4 lb. green beans, rinsed and trimmed

• 3 tbsp. finely chopped dill

• 1/2 tsp. lemon zest, optional

• Freshly ground black pepper

• 3 oz. goat cheese, crumbled

Directions

Combine the olive oil and walnuts in a small saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, until toasted. Remove from heat, add the garlic and toss to cool.

Bring 1 quart water to boil and add salt until it tastes like seawater. Add shell beans and cook until very tender, about 40 minutes. In another pot, bring at least 2 quarts of water to a boil and add salt until it tastes like seawater. Add the green beans and cook until just tender, about 4 minutes after the water returns to a boil. Drain well.

Pour the green beans and shell beans into a serving bowl and add the walnut mixture, dill, 1/2 teaspoon salt, lemon zest and freshly ground black pepper, tossing to combine. Crumble goat cheese over the beans and gently toss. Serve.

BRAISED ROMANO BEANS WITH TOMATO

Serves 4

• 1 lb. tomatoes

• 1 lb. romano beans

• 3/4 tsp. salt, divided, plus more for salting water

• 1/4 c. extra-virgin olive oil

• 4 garlic cloves, minced

• Freshly ground black pepper

• 12 black olives, such as kalamata or nicoise

• 12 basil leaves

• Juice of 1/2 lemon

Directions

Blanch the tomatoes in boiling water for 30 seconds, plunge in ice water and peel the skins. Dice.

Wash and trim the stem-ends of the beans, and cut on the bias into 2-inch long diamonds.

Bring a pot of water to a boil and add salt until it tastes like seawater. Add the beans and cook 1 minute after the water returns to a boil, just until they turn bright green; drain.

Heat the olive oil in a small high-sided skillet and add the garlic. Cook until it sizzles, flavoring the oil, and then add the chopped tomatoes, half of the salt and a few turns or shakes of black pepper. Simmer for 5 minutes, or until thickened.

Add the beans, olives and remaining salt and stir to combine. Cover the pan and simmer the beans over medium-low heat for 20 minutes, or until the beans are fully tender. If liquid has accumulated, uncover the beans and cook another few minutes until the tomato sauce reduces to cling to the beans. Add the lemon juice, and season with freshly ground black pepper and add the torn basil leaves before serving.

SESAME FAVAS

Makes 2/3 cup.

Note: This recipe is in the tradition of the Korean pan chan, or pre-appetizers which you pick at with your chopsticks while you wait for the main course to arrive. It would also be wonderful spooned over a piece of grilled fish. Fava beans can be found at local farmers markets, although you may substitute young green beans, cut to 2-inch lengths. Mirin can be purchased at Asian markets and at large supermarkets.

• 2/3 c. shelled and peeled fava beans (from 1 lb., 2 oz. fava beans in their pods)

• Salt for water

• 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil

• 1 tsp. sesame seeds

• 1/2 tsp. paprika

• Pinch of cayenne pepper

• Just less than1/2 tsp. salt, or to taste

• 1/2 tsp. mirin (sweet rice wine)

Directions

Shell the fava beans, popping the beans out of their fleecy pods. Discard the pods.

Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil, add salt until it tastes like seawater, and add the fava beans. Cook 1 minute, drain, and plunge in ice water.

When cold, drain the beans and slip off their skins -- excepting the truly tiny ones, which won't have developed beans. Those may stay in their skins.

Combine the fava beans, sesame oil, sesame seeds, paprika, cayenne, salt and mirin. Chill deeply before serving.