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Recipe: Cold soups: Carrot With Fines Herbes Mousse, Cream of Cucumber With Dill and Yogurt, Grape Gazpacho, Radish Buttermilk

August 2, 2017 at 8:11PM
An assortment of cold soups. Photo by Ed Hewitt
From left to right: Cold Cream of Cucumber With Dill and Yogurt. Grape Gazpacho (front). Radish Buttermilk Soup (back). Chilled Carrot Soup With Fines Herbes Mousse. (The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Chilled Carrot Soup With Fines Herbes Mousse

Makes 3 1/2 cups.

Note: Yes, this soup requires time at the stove. But, hey, it's from Thomas Keller — the mega-Michelin-starred chef of the French Laundry. If you can't find chervil, use more tarragon. One bit of advice: Watch the pan closely toward the end of cooking. The carrots/cooking liquid can go from "evaporated" to caramelized in a matter of moments. From "Saveur, the New Classics."

For the soup:

• 3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1-in. rounds

• 2 1/2 c. fresh carrot juice, divided

• 1 tsp. unsalted butter

• 1 tsp. honey

• Pinch of curry powder

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• 1/2 c. heavy cream

• Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

For the mousse:

• 1/4 c. crème fraîche

• 1 fresh chive, finely chopped

• 1 sprig parsley, leaves only, finely chopped

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• 1 sprig fresh chervil, leaves only, finely chopped (see Note)

• 1 sprig tarragon, leaves only, finely chopped

Directions

To prepare soup: Put carrots, 1 1/4 cups carrot juice, butter, honey and curry powder in a medium pot. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, until liquid has evaporated and carrots are soft, about 1 hour. Add cream, increase heat to medium and simmer for 3 minutes.

Purée carrot mixture and remaining 1 1/4 cups carrot juice in a blender. (If you have an immersion blender, do it in a large mixing bowl; it's easier.) Pass through a fine meshed sieve into a bowl, if desired. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Cover and refrigerate until chilled. Taste for seasoning just before serving, and adjust if you like.

To prepare mousse: Whisk crème fraîche in a medium bowl until stiff peaks form. Fold in chopped herbs.

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Divide soup into serving vessels. (Bowl? Mug? Martini glass?) Add dollop of mousse on each serving.

Nutrition information per ½-cup serving:

Calories130Fat9 gSodium80 mg

Carbohydrates12 gSaturated fat6 gTotal sugars6 g

Protein2 gCholesterol30 mgDietary fiber1 g

Exchanges per serving: 1 carb, 2 fat.

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Cold Cream of Cucumber With Dill and Yogurt

Makes 6 1/2 cups.

Note: This recipe must be prepared in advance. Inspired by the Indian relish raita, this is soup is as cool as a cucumber with a major hit of tang. If your food processor is too small for all the ingredients, use it for only the vegetables, along with lemon juice to moisten. Then transfer the puréed mixture to a bowl and whisk in yogurt and cream. From "Williams-Sonoma Soups."

• 6 unpeeled cucumbers, each about 5 in. long, ends trimmed, cut into large chunks

• 4 kosher dill pickles, cut into chunks

• 2 c. plain low-fat yogurt

• 2 c. heavy cream

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• 2 tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice

• 2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh dill or 1 tbsp. dried

• Salt and white pepper to taste

• Fresh dill sprigs or dried dill to garnish

Directions

Put cucumbers, pickles, yogurt, cream, lemon juice and dill in a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process until vegetables are finely chopped. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Cover tightly and refrigerate until well chilled, 2 to 3 hours, or overnight. Before serving, taste for seasoning, and adjust if you like. Garnish with additional dill.

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Nutrition information per ½-cup serving:

Calories150Fat12 gSodium205 mg

Carbohydrates8 gSaturated fat8 gTotal sugars6 g

Protein4 gCholesterol45 mgDietary fiber1 g

Exchanges per serving: ½ milk, 2½ fat.

Grape Gazpacho

Makes about 4 cups.

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Note: This recipe must be prepared in advance. Soup is a sweet surprise — taking cues from a classic gazpacho, with grapes standing in for tomatoes. From "The New Basics Cookbook," by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins.

• 1 c. green seedless grapes

• 1 ripe avocado, pitted and peeled

• 3/4 c. peeled and coarsely chopped cucumber

• 1/2 c. seeded and coarsely chopped green bell pepper

• 1/2 c. coarsely chopped celery

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• 1/2 c. coarsely chopped green onions

• 1 1/2 c. white grape juice

• 1 tbsp. freshly squeezed lime juice

• 2 tbsp. chopped fresh mint leaves

• Salt and white pepper to taste

• More mint, or lime zest to garnish

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Directions

Purée the grapes, avocado, cucumber, green pepper, celery and onions (in batches, if necessary) in a food processor, adding grape juice as needed to prevent clogging. Do not completely liquefy — small vegetable chunks add interest and texture.

Transfer mixture to a bowl. Stir in remaining grape juice, lime juice and chopped mint, along with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and chill for at least 4 hours.

Taste again at serving time, adjust seasoning as needed, and garnish with mint sprigs or lime zest.

Nutrition information per ½-cup serving:

Calories75Fat3 gSodium10 mg

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Carbohydrates13 gSaturated fat0 gTotal sugars10 g

Protein1 gCholesterol0 mgDietary fiber2 g

Exchanges per serving: 1 carb, ½ fat.

Radish Buttermilk Soup

Makes about 4 cups.

Note: Slavic countries incorporate radishes into cold soups. From Epicurious.com.

• 1/2 lb. trimmed radishes, quartered (1 1/4 c.)

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• 3/4 lb. seedless cucumber (usually plastic-wrapped), peeled and chopped (2 c.)

• 2 c. well-shaken chilled buttermilk

• 1 tsp. kosher salt

• 1 tsp. seasoned rice vinegar

• 1/2 tsp. sugar

• Thinly sliced radish and/or cucumber for garnish

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Directions

Purée all radishes, cucumber, buttermilk, salt, vinegar and sugar in a blender until very smooth. Serve immediately or store in refrigerator. Before serving, taste for seasoning and correct if needed. Garnish with radish or cucumber.

Nutrition information per ½-cup serving:

Calories35Fat1 gSodium375 mg

Carbohydrates6 gSaturated fat0 gTotal sugars4 g

Protein2 gCholesterol2 mgDietary fiber1 g

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Exchanges per serving: ½ carb.

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