Recipe: Chimichangas

Makes 4 large.

Note: Depending on appetites, this recipe serves 2 to 4. (Ravenous high school quarterbacks might gobble down two or three, but normal people generally stop at one.) In any case, the recipe is easily doubled, and leftovers are surprisingly good reheated the next day. (Refrigerate veggies separately, zap chimis in the microwave.) Change up beans and cheese as you like. Recipe suggests black beans and Colby-jack cheese, but you might prefer pintos and Cheddar. Using large tortillas simplifies stuffing and rolling, but if you have smaller ones on hand, don't hesitate to use them. Simply downsize the amount of filling per tortilla to produce smaller chimis in greater quantity. From Jo Marshall.

• 4 (10-in.) flour tortillas (often marketed as "burrito" or "grande")

• 1 (15-oz.) can seasoned, refried beans

• 1 1/2 c. shredded Colby-jack

• Vegetable oil for frying

• 2 c. (or more) coarsely chopped romaine (or one heart of romaine, bitter core removed, chopped crosswise into 1-in. slivers)

• 3 to 4 green onions, thinly sliced

• 1/4 c. finely chopped fresh cilantro

• 1 avocado, diced, optional

• Handful of thinly sliced radish, optional

• Diced bell pepper or jalapeño, optional

• Sour cream

Directions

To assemble: Lay tortillas on a work surface. Spread beans on the half of each tortilla nearest you, leaving about an inch of space on sides and nearest edge. Sprinkle cheese over beans. Fold over bottom edge to seal in the filling, then fold in sides to envelop, and roll, burrito-style, into a tight cylinder. Lay assembled chimichangas seam side down on a plate or baking sheet. (At this point, chimichangas can be refrigerated and finished later. Cover them with plastic wrap if it's going to be more than an hour or two.)

To fry and finish: Heat about ½ inch of vegetable oil in a wide, high-sided skillet over medium-high heat. When oil is hot but not smoking, add a chimichanga, seam side down. (Frying seam side first binds the seam, and keeps the bundles from unrolling.)

You should hear a sizzle. If not, continue to heat oil, then add remaining chimichangas. Rotate cylinders until each side is golden brown, checking frequently and adjusting heat as necessary to prevent burning. (If the pan becomes overly dry, add a little more oil and continue to fry as needed.)

When chimis are crisp and golden on all sides, place them on the bed of lettuce. (Don't worry if your chimichangas aren't perfectly cylindrical. Mine sometimes veer toward the shape of a Twinkie, but garnishes cover a multitude of sins.)