CHICKEN WITH RED CHILES AND COCONUT MILK

Serves 6.

Even though the chiles are potent, the vinegar and coconut milk in this dish bring it down many notches to make a hot, sweet, creamy curry. Ladle it over mounds of cooked rice for a southern Indian-style meal (red rice would be the choice in India).

• 1/4 c. white vinegar

• 1 tsp. coarse kosher or sea salt

• 1/4 tsp. ground turmeric

• 1 small red onion, coarsely chopped

• 6 medium-size garlic cloves

• 3 dried red Thai or cayenne chiles, stems removed

• 1 (31/2 lb.) chicken, skin removed, cut into 8 pieces

• 2 tbsp. canola oil

• 3/4 c. unsweetened coconut milk

• 1 (14.5-oz.) can diced tomato

• 1/4 c. finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems

Directions

Pour the vinegar into a blender jar, followed by the salt, turmeric, onion, garlic and chiles. Purée, scraping the inside of the jar as needed, to make a smooth, yellow-hued light purple marinade.

Place the chicken in a baking dish and spoon the marinade over it, turning the chicken pieces to coat them thoroughly. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours, to allow the flavors to penetrate the meat. (Because vinegar is so acidic, you do not want to marinate the chicken for any longer because it might break down the meat's texture, rendering it unappetizing.)

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chicken, including the marinade, meat side down, in a single layer. Cook, allowing the meat to sear after some of the nose-tingling marinade boils off, until browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Turn the chicken over and brown on the other side, about 5 minutes.

Pour in the coconut milk and lift the chicken pieces slightly to allow it to coat the bottom of the skillet and to loosen the browned bits, deglazing the skillet.

Add the diced tomatoes, with their juice, stirring to incorporate them into the curry. Once it comes to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and simmer, turning the chicken pieces occasionally and basting them every 3 to 4 minutes, until the meat in the thickest parts is no longer pink inside and the juices run clear, 20 to 25 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a serving platter.

Stir the cilantro into the sauce, raise the heat to medium, and simmer vigorously, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the chunky, reddish-brown curry is slightly thick, 5 to 8 minutes.

Pour the sauce over the chicken and serve.


GREEN AND RED CHILES

Makes almost 2 cups.

These pickles don't have to steep for days before you can use them to perk up curries, breads and rice. If fresh red chiles aren't easy to come by, make the recipe with all green ones.

• 4 oz. fresh green and red Thai, cayenne or serrano chiles, stems removed, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch. thick slices (do not remove seeds)

• 1/4 c. mustard oil or canola oil

• 1 tbsp. black or yellow mustard seeds, coarsely cracked

• 1 tsp. coarse kosher or sea salt

• 1 tsp. ground turmeric

• Juice of 1 medium-size lime

Directions

Place the chiles in a clean, dry glass jar.

Warm the oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Stir in the cracked mustard seeds and allow them to steep (but not sizzle) for 1 to 2 minutes.

Pour the seedy oil over the chiles and sprinkle in the salt and turmeric. Squirt the lime juice into the jar. Screw the top shut and shake the jar vigorously to allow the ingredients to mix thoroughly. Leave the jar on the counter for 4 to 6 hours so the chiles can soak up the flavors. If not using, Refrigerate for up to a month.